2-1 Buydown Calculator: Cost by Year

Buydowns and Discount Points

2-1 buydown calculator: what will the buydown cost, year by year?

Published October 6, 2026 · 15 min read

Valley West Mortgage is an independent mortgage lender, NMLS #65506, based in Las Vegas, Nevada. Equal Housing Opportunity. Not affiliated with, or acting at the direction of, Fannie Mae or any government agency, including HUD, the FHA and the VA. Figures on this page are illustrative and are not an offer of credit or a commitment to lend.

A 2-1 buydown costs exactly the payment savings it pays for. Add 12 months of the year-one saving to 12 months of the year-two saving. That total is set aside at closing in a buydown account (a fund that pays part of each monthly payment for you). The 2-1 buydown calculator below does that math on your own loan, then checks the total against your seller credit limit.

Quick answer: A 2-1 buydown is money set aside at closing that lowers your payment for two years. In year one, your payment is figured at a rate 2 percentage points below your note rate (the full rate in your loan contract). In year two, it is 1 point below. From year three on, you pay the full amount. In this guide's illustrative example, which uses assumed loan terms we do not state or offer, the payment drops $476 a month in year one and $244 a month in year two. Those are differences between payments, they leave out taxes and insurance, and they are not an offer, a quote or a commitment to lend. So the buydown costs about $5,712 plus $2,928, or $8,640 (your lender works it to the cent). Under Fannie Mae and FHA rules, lenders still qualify you at the full payment.

A 2-1 buydown calculator answers one question: how much money has to sit in the buydown account so your first two years cost less? The answer is simple arithmetic once you see what the money buys.

This guide gives you the calculator, the three-step math behind it and a worked Las Vegas example. It also covers the rules that decide whether the deal works: seller credit limits, qualifying, leftover money and the loans that cannot have a buydown at all.

Key takeaways

  • The cost is two numbers added together. Twelve times the year-one monthly saving, plus twelve times the year-two monthly saving.
  • There is a fast way to check a quote. On a fixed-rate loan, the cost lands a little under 36 times the year-two monthly saving.
  • It does not help you qualify. Fannie Mae and FHA rules have the lender use your note rate, which is the full rate in your loan contract.
  • Seller money is capped, and the buydown counts. FHA allows up to 6 percent of the price. Fannie Mae allows 3, 6 or 9 percent on a home you live in, depending on your loan-to-value ratio (combined with any second loan).
  • Some loans cannot have one. Fannie Mae bars temporary buydowns on investment properties and on cash-out refinances (loans that pay you cash from your equity). FHA bars them on every refinance.

2-1 buydown calculator: what will it cost on your loan?

Use this calculator to price a 2-1 buydown on your own numbers. It shows your full payment, the lower payment in years one and two, and the total that must be set aside at closing. Then it checks that total, plus any other seller credits, against the limit for your loan type.

Every figure comes from what you type. The page fills in nothing for you. The math covers principal and interest only, which is the part of your payment set by your note (the loan contract you sign). Your property taxes, homeowners insurance and any mortgage insurance stay the same.

Price your 2-1 buydown

Type your own numbers. Nothing is filled in for you, and nothing here is a quote.

$

The price in your purchase contract.

$

The amount you plan to borrow.

%

The full rate on your loan, from your lender. We do not quote one here.

Fixed-rate loans only. See the rules below.

Sets the seller credit limit for a home you will live in.

$

Closing costs or other money the seller pays. Enter 0 if none.

$0needed in the buydown account

Enter the price, loan amount, note rate, term and loan type to see your results.

  • Full principal and interest, year 3 on 
  • Year 1 principal and interest 
  • Year 2 principal and interest 
  • Monthly saving, year 1 and year 2 
  • Quick check: 36 times the year 2 saving 
  • Seller credit limit for your loan 
  • Buydown plus other seller credits 

Illustrative estimate from your own entries only. Principal and interest only; taxes, insurance and mortgage insurance are left out. Monthly savings are rounded to whole dollars before they are multiplied, so your lender's figure may differ by a few dollars. The seller credit limit assumes the appraisal comes in at or above the price. Your year 1 and year 2 payments are temporary; the full payment applies from year 3. Your APR (annual percentage rate, the yearly cost of the loan including fees) can differ from your note rate, and your Loan Estimate shows it. This is not a quote, an offer of credit, a Loan Estimate or a commitment to lend.

How do you calculate a 2-1 buydown?

You calculate a 2-1 buydown in three steps. First, though, here is what you are pricing. A 2-1 buydown is a temporary buydown, which means money paid up front to lower your payment for a set time. With a 2-1, that time is two years.

  1. Find three payments. Work out the principal and interest payment at your note rate. Then do it again at 2 percentage points lower and at 1 percentage point lower.
  2. Find the two monthly savings. Subtract the year-one payment from the full payment. Next, subtract the year-two payment from the full payment.
  3. Multiply and add. Multiply each monthly saving by 12. Then add the two results. That total is the cost of the buydown.

That money goes into a buydown account. Fannie Mae, the company that buys many home loans from lenders, requires those funds to sit in a custodial bank account. That is an account kept apart from the lender's own money. Meanwhile, HUD, the agency that runs the FHA program, requires the lender to set up an escrow for them. An escrow here is an account held by a third party that pays out only under set rules.

Here is the quick check worth knowing. On a fixed-rate loan, the year-one saving is always a little less than double the year-two saving. So the cost lands a little under 36 times the year-two monthly saving. If a quote comes in well above that, ask how it was figured.

One small caution. A lender works this math to the cent and may round each month its own way. So the figure in your buydown agreement can differ from a calculator by a few dollars.

What does a 2-1 buydown cost on a Las Vegas home?

In the example below, it costs $8,640. Every figure is an assumption chosen to make the arithmetic easy to follow. None of it is a quote, an offer or a commitment to lend.

The setup, illustrative only. A buyer in Las Vegas agrees to buy a $425,000 home. The seller offers to pay for a 2-1 buydown.

The two monthly savings. Assume the buydown lowers the principal and interest payment by $476 a month in year one and $244 a month in year two, rounded to whole dollars.

The cost. Year one is 12 times $476, or $5,712. Year two is 12 times $244, or $2,928. So the seller deposits $5,712 plus $2,928, or $8,640.

The quick check. 36 times $244 is $8,784. The real cost, $8,640, lands a little under it, just as the rule says.

This is an educational example, not an offer, a rate quote or an advertisement of loan terms. The monthly savings were worked from assumed loan terms that this page does not state and that Valley West is not offering. They are differences between payments, not payments on any loan, and they leave out taxes and insurance. Your real costs, your rate and your annual percentage rate (APR), which is the yearly cost of the loan including fees, depend on your loan, the day you lock and your credit. They are shown in your Loan Estimate (the standard three-page cost form a lender must give you after you apply). This is not a commitment to lend.

How the $8,640 buydown account in the example drains, year by year. Illustrative figures only, not a quote.
YearMonthly savingPaid from the account that yearLeft in the account at year end
Year 1$476$5,712$2,928
Year 2$244$2,928$0
Year 3 and after$0$0Account used up

Check the first row. The account starts at $8,640, and year one uses $5,712. That leaves $8,640 minus $5,712, or $2,928, which is exactly what year two needs.

So the account is empty after 24 months. In year three, your payment rises to the full amount in your note. The step-up is real, but it is the payment your lender used to qualify you. The qualifying section below explains why.

Has a seller or builder offered to pay for a buydown? Price it before you sign.

Send the price, the dollar amount being offered and your timeline. A Valley West loan officer can walk you through the buydown cost, the seller credit limit and the year-three payment on your own numbers.

The rules and examples on this page are current as of October 6, 2026.

Get your fast quote

What is the average cost of a 2-1 buydown?

There is no fixed price. The cost depends on two things: how much you borrow and your note rate. A bigger loan or a higher rate means bigger monthly savings, so the account costs more.

That is why a percent-of-price rule of thumb can mislead you. In our example, $8,640 is about 2 percent of the $425,000 price. As a check, $425,000 times 0.02 is $8,500, and $8,640 sits just above it. On a different loan size or rate, however, that share changes.

Fannie Mae does not cap the dollar amount of a buydown, either. Its rule is only that the amount must match the terms of the buydown period. So the honest way to find your cost is to run your own loan through the calculator above. Then ask your lender for the exact figure in writing.

Who can pay for a 2-1 buydown, and how much can a seller put in?

A seller, a builder, the lender or you can pay for it. Fannie Mae's rules cover buydowns paid for by interested parties and by the lender. An interested party is someone with a stake in the sale, such as the seller, a builder or a real estate agent.

When a seller or builder pays, the money counts toward a limit on seller help. Fannie Mae and HUD both say so in plain terms. The limit depends on your loan type and, on a conventional loan, on your loan-to-value ratio, or LTV. LTV is your loan amount divided by the home's value.

Seller credit limits on a home you will live in, applied to the $425,000 example. Fannie Mae figures its limit on the lower of the price or the appraised value; this table assumes the appraisal comes in at or above the price. Illustrative figures only.
Loan typeSeller credit limitOn a $425,000 priceRoom left after the $8,640 buydown
FHA6 percent of the sales price$25,500$16,860
Conventional (Fannie Mae), LTV over 90 percent3 percent$12,750$4,110
Conventional (Fannie Mae), LTV 75.01 to 90 percent6 percent$25,500$16,860
Conventional (Fannie Mae), LTV 75 percent or less9 percent$38,250$29,610

Watch the 3 percent row. It applies only if you borrow more than 90 percent of the price, and a bigger loan also makes the buydown cost more. Suppose the seller also offers $6,000 toward closing costs. Then $8,640 plus $6,000 is $14,640. That is $1,890 over the $12,750 limit. Under Fannie Mae's rules, money over the limit is treated as a sales concession. A sales concession comes off the price used to size your loan, so it can raise the cash you need at closing.

The fix is usually to trim the package so it fits, or to trade some credits for a lower price. On an FHA loan, our page on FHA 2-1 buydown rules covers the 6 percent limit in detail. For the full picture of seller help, see our guide to how seller-paid closing costs work in Nevada. And if a builder on a new home is offering the money, our conventional loan site explains how a builder's buydown incentive is set up on new construction in Las Vegas.

Does a 2-1 buydown help you qualify for the loan?

No. Under Fannie Mae and FHA rules, the lender qualifies you at the note rate, so the lower year-one payment does not count.

Fannie Mae's rule is in section B2-1.4-04 of its Selling Guide. It says the lender "must qualify the borrower based on the note rate without consideration of the bought-down rate". HUD's handbook says the same thing for FHA loans. In section II.A.4.a.iii, it tells the lender to "use the Note rate when calculating principal and interest" on a loan with a temporary buydown.

In practice, the lender uses the full payment to figure your debt-to-income ratio, or DTI. DTI is your monthly debts divided by your monthly income before taxes. Our plain guide shows how lenders count your debt-to-income ratio.

So use the calculator's full payment as your test. If your budget works at that number, the buydown is extra breathing room for two years. If it only works at the year-one payment, the buydown cannot fix that.

There is one more rule to know. Both Fannie Mae and HUD say that if the buydown money is not paid for any reason, you still owe the full payment in your note. In addition, Fannie Mae requires your loan documents to show the full payment terms, and the buydown cannot change your note.

What happens to unused buydown money if you sell or refinance?

That depends on your loan type and your buydown agreement. First, here is how much could be left. Say the buyer in our example sells 18 months into the buydown.

Year one used all 12 months, or $5,712. Six months of year two used 6 times $244, or $1,464. Together that is $7,176 used out of $8,640, which leaves $1,464. Check it the other way: six months of year two remain, and 6 times $244 is also $1,464.

  • On a loan sold to Fannie Mae, leftover money at payoff should be credited toward the amount needed to pay off the loan. Or it may be returned to you, or to the lender if the lender paid for the buydown, as the buydown agreement says.
  • On an FHA loan, HUD bars the escrow agreement from sending leftover money back to whoever provided it when the home is sold or the loan is paid off. It also bars paying it to you in cash, unless your own money set up the account.

So read the buydown agreement before closing, and ask what happens to leftover money at payoff. A refinance pays off the old loan, so the same question applies there too. Our guide on refinancing during a 2-1 buydown walks through that choice.

When can you not use a 2-1 buydown?

You cannot use one on several kinds of loans. Fannie Mae and HUD each name them.

  • Investment properties on a Fannie Mae loan. Fannie Mae lists principal residences and second homes as eligible for temporary buydowns, and investor properties as ineligible.
  • Cash-out refinances on a Fannie Mae loan. A cash-out refinance is a new loan that is bigger than the old one, so you take the difference in cash. These are also listed as ineligible.
  • Any FHA refinance. HUD's handbook says temporary buydowns "are not permitted with refinance transactions," in section II.A.8.d.iii.
  • Adjustable-rate loans, with limits. An adjustable-rate mortgage, or ARM, is a loan whose rate can change over time. HUD does not permit temporary buydowns on FHA ARMs, in section II.A.8.f.vi. Fannie Mae allows them only on certain ARM plans.

So for most buyers, a 2-1 buydown is a tool for buying a home you will live in, with a fixed-rate loan.

Is a 2-1 buydown a good idea?

It is a good idea when someone else pays for it and you can already afford the full payment. Use this quick check.

  • A 2-1 buydown tends to fit when the seller or builder is paying, you qualify easily at the full payment, and the first two years will be tight for a reason you can name.
  • Think twice when you would pay for it yourself, or you are stretching to afford the year-three payment. In that case, money spent on a lower rate for the life of the loan may help longer. Discount points are fees you pay at closing for a lower rate on the whole loan. Our guide covers whether paying discount points for a lower rate pays off, and our temporary vs permanent buydown comparison works the same seller dollars both ways.
  • Compare the same dollars two ways if the seller would cut the price instead. A lower price lowers your loan for good, while a buydown lowers only two years of payments. We run that test in a seller-paid buydown vs a price cut.

For the three-year version, see how a 3-2-1 buydown works, month by month. And for every buydown type on one page, our guide to mortgage rate buydowns covers the 2-1, the 3-2-1 and the 1-0.

The Valley West take. A 2-1 buydown is easy to price once you see it as two years of prepaid savings. Run your own loan through the calculator, then check the total against your seller credit limit. Finally, judge the deal at the year-three payment, because that is the payment you qualified at.

2-1 buydown calculator: FAQ

Cost and math

How do you calculate a 2-1 buydown?

Find the principal and interest payment at your note rate, at 2 percentage points lower and at 1 percentage point lower. Multiply the year-one saving by 12 and the year-two saving by 12, then add them. In this guide's illustrative example (assumed figures, not an offer or a quote), that is $5,712 plus $2,928, or $8,640.

How much does a 2-1 buydown cost?

It costs the payment savings it pays for, so it depends on your loan amount and note rate. In this guide's illustrative example, which uses assumed terms and is not an offer or a quote, it cost $8,640, about 2 percent of a $425,000 price. A quick check: the cost lands a little under 36 times the year-two monthly saving.

Who pays for a 2-1 buydown?

The seller, a builder, the lender or you. When a seller or builder pays, the money counts toward your loan's limit on seller help, such as 6 percent of the sales price on an FHA loan.

Rules and limits

Does a 2-1 buydown help you qualify for a mortgage?

No, under Fannie Mae and FHA rules. The lender qualifies you at the note rate, which is the full rate in your loan contract, so the lower year-one payment does not count.

Can you get a 2-1 buydown on an investment property?

Not on a loan sold to Fannie Mae. Its rules list investor properties as ineligible for temporary buydowns. Principal residences and second homes are eligible.

Can you get a 2-1 buydown on an FHA refinance?

No. HUD's handbook says temporary buydowns are not permitted with refinance transactions.

What happens to buydown money if you refinance early?

On a Fannie Mae loan, leftover money at payoff is credited toward the payoff or returned to you or the lender, as the buydown agreement says. On an FHA loan, it cannot go back to the seller or whoever else provided it.

Article history

  • October 6, 2026. First published. Fannie Mae Selling Guide sections B2-1.4-04 (dated 08/07/2024) and B3-4.1-02 (dated 05/07/2025) were read on Fannie Mae's site that day, using the date shown on each section's own heading.

    HUD Handbook 4000.1 was read on HUD's site that day, in the edition whose pages are marked last revised August 12, 2026. The CFPB's page on interest rates and APR (marked last reviewed August 28, 2026) was also read that day.

    The arithmetic in each example was rechecked: the $8,640 account, the year-by-year table, the 36-times check, the four seller credit limits and the 18-month leftover example.

  • Next review: when Fannie Mae or HUD change buydown or seller credit rules, or by January 15, 2027, whichever comes first.

About the publisher

VW
Published by
Valley West Editorial
Valley West Mortgage · NMLS #65506

Valley West Editorial is the content team of Valley West Mortgage, an independent mortgage lender based in Las Vegas and holding NMLS #65506. Check current company authorization in Nevada through NMLS Consumer Access. The rules and limits in this article were checked against the primary sources listed below. The example dollar amounts are assumptions chosen for the arithmetic.

Find out what a 2-1 buydown really costs on your loan

One conversation can cover three things. First, whether you qualify at the full payment. Second, what the buydown costs on your own loan. Third, whether the seller's offer fits your loan's seller credit limit.

Start your fast quote

Across Valley West: Government loans add their own rules to a buydown. Our FHA loan site lays out what FHA seller concessions can pay for on a Las Vegas purchase. Our VA loan site covers the VA rules for a seller-paid 2-1 buydown in Las Vegas.

Keep reading

Sources: Fannie Mae

Sources: HUD and CFPB

Verification note

Last updated: October 6, 2026. Every source listed above was read on October 6, 2026, and the arithmetic in each example was rechecked.

What this page refuses to do

It quotes no interest rate, no annual percentage rate, no loan term, no down payment and no monthly payment amount on any loan. The calculator shows only results from the numbers you type, and the monthly figures in the example are differences between payments that leave out taxes and insurance. The price, the monthly savings and the seller credits are assumptions chosen for the arithmetic, not quotes.

It names no lender other than our own. It is not legal or tax advice. Your purchase contract, your note and your buydown agreement control.

This article is for general information and is not legal, tax or financial advice. Valley West Mortgage is an independent mortgage lender, NMLS #65506, licensed in Nevada. Equal Housing Opportunity. Valley West Mortgage is not affiliated with, or acting on behalf of or at the direction of, Fannie Mae or any government agency, including HUD, the FHA and the VA. This page is not from HUD, the FHA or the VA and was not approved by any of them. FHA loans are insured by the FHA and made by private lenders. Nothing on this page is an offer of credit, a rate quote, a preapproval or a commitment to lend, and loan terms vary by borrower, property and program. All figures are illustrative and not a quote, offer, or commitment to lend.

Talk to a Valley West specialist

Valley West Mortgage, NMLS #65506. Equal Housing Opportunity. Submitting this form is not an application and is not a commitment to lend.

Temporary vs Permanent Buydown

Buydowns and Discount Points

Temporary vs permanent buydown: which one pays you back more?

Published October 3, 2026 · 16 min read

Valley West Mortgage is an independent mortgage lender, NMLS #65506, based in Las Vegas, Nevada. Equal Housing Opportunity. Not affiliated with, or acting at the direction of, Fannie Mae or any government agency, including HUD, the FHA, the VA and the IRS. Figures on this page are illustrative and are not an offer of credit or a commitment to lend.

A temporary buydown lowers your payment for the first one to three years. A permanent buydown lowers it for the whole loan. With the same dollars, a temporary buydown usually gives more help early, and a permanent buydown tends to win if you keep the loan long enough. The right answer depends on your loan, your lender's pricing and how long you keep it.

Quick answer: A temporary buydown is money set aside at closing to cover part of your payment for a short time, often two years. A permanent buydown uses discount points (fees paid up front for a lower rate) to cut the rate for the life of the loan. In this guide's example, the same seller dollars favored the temporary buydown for about the first four years. After that, the permanent buydown pulled ahead. The permanent one can also help you qualify, because it lowers the full payment the lender uses.

The temporary vs permanent buydown choice comes down to one question: how long will you keep this loan? Both options spend money at closing to make your payment smaller. They just spend it on different years.

This guide works one Las Vegas example by hand, so you can see where the two lines cross. It also covers the rules that can decide the question for you: qualifying, seller credit limits, refinancing early and taxes.

Key takeaways

  • Temporary means early relief. A 2-1 buydown lowers your payment in years one and two, then the full payment starts in year three.
  • Permanent means a smaller payment for good. Discount points lower the rate on your loan, so every payment is smaller for as long as you keep it.
  • In our example, the crossover came at about four years. Keep the loan longer and the permanent buydown wins. Sell or refinance sooner and the temporary one wins.
  • Only the permanent one helps you qualify. Under Fannie Mae and FHA rules, a temporary buydown is ignored when the lender sizes your loan.
  • Both count toward seller credit limits. Fannie Mae and FHA both count seller money for either kind of buydown.

What is the difference between a temporary and permanent buydown?

The difference is how long the lower payment lasts. A temporary buydown lowers your payment for the first one to three years. A permanent buydown lowers it for the whole life of the loan.

Both are paid for at closing, and either one can be paid by you, the seller or a builder. But they work in very different ways under the hood.

Temporary vs permanent buydown at a glance. General rules only; your loan program's rules control.
QuestionTemporary buydownPermanent buydown
How long the lower payment lastsOne to three yearsThe whole loan
What the money buysA fund that pays part of each early paymentA lower rate in your loan contract
Rate written in your loan contractDoes not changeLower
Helps you qualifyNo, under Fannie Mae and FHA rulesYes, through a lower full payment
Counts toward seller credit limitsYesYes
If you refinance earlyUnused money is credited toward the payoff or returned, as the buydown agreement saysThe points are already spent

How does a temporary buydown work?

A temporary buydown puts money into a buydown account at closing. That account is a separate fund that pays part of each payment for you during the first years. Meanwhile, your loan itself does not change.

The most common kind is a 2-1 buydown. Your effective rate is 2 percentage points below your note rate (the full rate in your loan contract) in year one. It is 1 point below in year two. From year three on, you pay the full amount. A 3-2-1 stretches the same idea over three years, and a 1-0 covers just one.

Fannie Mae, the company that buys many home loans from lenders, sets the limits in its Selling Guide, section B2-1.4-04. The rate can be bought down by no more than 3 percentage points. It can rise by no more than 1 point a year, and the buydown can last no more than three years. In addition, the money must sit in a custodial bank account, which is kept apart from the lender's own funds.

For the three-year version in detail, see how a 3-2-1 buydown works, month by month.

How does a permanent buydown work?

A permanent buydown means paying discount points at closing for a lower rate. The Consumer Financial Protection Bureau, or CFPB, explains that one point equals 1 percent of your loan amount. Points do not have to be round numbers, either.

The CFPB also says points show up on page 2, in Section A, of your Loan Estimate (the cost summary a lender gives you after you apply) and your Closing Disclosure. By law, points listed there must be tied to a lower interest rate. However, how much each point lowers your rate depends on the lender and the day you lock.

So the first step is always the same. Ask your lender for the rate with zero points and the rate with the points you are considering, on the same day. Then compare the two payments. If you want to test the trade from the other direction too, our conventional loan site has a tool to weigh lender credits against discount points on your own numbers.

The one idea to hold onto. A temporary buydown spends its money on your first years. A permanent buydown spreads its value over every year you keep the loan.

Temporary vs permanent buydown: which saves more?

It depends on how long you keep the loan. In the example below, the temporary buydown was ahead for about the first four years. After that, the permanent buydown pulled ahead and kept growing. Every figure here is an assumption chosen for the arithmetic. None of it is a quote, offer or commitment to lend.

The setup, illustrative only. A buyer in Las Vegas agrees to buy a $400,000 home. The seller agrees to put $8,184 toward the buyer's loan. The buyer can use it one of two ways.

Choice 1, the temporary buydown. Assume a 2-1 buydown on this loan lowers the principal and interest payment by $451 a month in year one and $231 a month in year two. Year one is 12 times $451, or $5,412. Year two is 12 times $231, or $2,772. So the account costs $5,412 plus $2,772, or exactly $8,184.

Choice 2, the permanent buydown. Assume the same $8,184, spent on discount points at an assumed price (not a Valley West price), lowers the principal and interest payment by $132 a month for the life of the loan. Both monthly figures are differences from the full payment, before taxes and insurance.

This is an educational example, not an offer, a rate quote or an advertisement of loan terms. The dollar amounts were worked from assumed loan terms that this page does not state and that Valley West is not offering. They are differences between two choices, not payments on any loan, and they leave out taxes and insurance. Your real savings, the price of points, your rate and your annual percentage rate (APR) depend on your loan, the day you lock and your credit, and are shown in your Loan Estimate. This is not a commitment to lend.

Now count what each choice puts back in your pocket. The temporary buydown pays out its $8,184 over 24 months and then stops. The permanent buydown pays $132 a month for as long as you keep the loan.

There is one more piece most comparisons leave out. A lower rate also pays down your balance a little faster. So if you sell or refinance, you owe slightly less with the permanent buydown. The table counts that too.

The same $8,184 from the seller, two ways. Illustrative figures only, not a quote. The amounts owed are assumptions worked from the same loan math as the $132 figure.
If you sell or refinance afterTemporary: total helpPermanent: payments savedPermanent: less owedPermanent: total
2 years$8,184$3,168about $900about $4,070
3 years$8,184$4,752about $1,360about $6,110
5 years$8,184$7,920about $2,260about $10,180
7 years$8,184$11,088about $3,160about $14,250
10 years$8,184$15,840about $4,430about $20,270

Check the first row. Two years is 24 months, and 24 times $132 is $3,168. Add about $900 you no longer owe, and the total is about $4,070. That is about half of what the temporary buydown paid you. Now check the five-year row: 60 times $132 is $7,920. Add about $2,260, and the permanent buydown is ahead at about $10,180.

So why does the answer flip? Because the temporary buydown spends all of its money in two years. By contrast, the permanent buydown keeps paying you every month after that.

One honest caveat. This count ignores timing. The temporary buydown puts its money in your hands when a new owner often has the most costs. If that early help keeps you off a credit card, it can be worth more than the totals show.

Has a seller or builder offered money toward your loan? Price both buydowns first.

Send the price, the dollar amount being offered and your timeline. A Valley West loan officer can walk you through the temporary buydown, the points and the break-even month on your own numbers.

The rules and examples on this page are current as of October 3, 2026.

Get your fast quote

How do you find your break-even month?

Divide the cost of the points by the monthly savings. The answer is how many months it takes the permanent buydown to pay back its cost in lower payments alone.

In the example, that is $8,184 divided by $132, or 62 months. That is five years and two months. Check it the other way: 62 times $132 is $8,184.

However, that simple count leaves out the smaller balance. Once you add it, the crossover in this example comes sooner, at about 49 months, or four years and one month. That is the point where the permanent buydown's payments saved plus its lower balance first top $8,184.

Here is the rule of thumb that falls out of this. If you are fairly sure you will keep the loan past your break-even month, points tend to win. If you might sell or refinance before then, the temporary buydown tends to win. For a deeper look at the points side alone, see our guide to whether paying points to lower your rate pays off.

Which buydown helps you qualify for the loan?

Only the permanent buydown, under Fannie Mae and FHA rules. That is because points lower the note rate itself, so the full payment the lender uses goes down.

A temporary buydown does not count. Fannie Mae's section B2-1.4-04 is clear on this. The lender "must qualify the borrower based on the note rate without consideration of the bought-down rate." HUD's FHA handbook, section II.A.4.a.iii, says the same thing for FHA loans: the lender must use the note rate.

Here is what that means in the example. With points, the full payment is $132 a month lower. Lenders compare that payment, plus your other debts, with your income before taxes. That share is your debt-to-income ratio, or DTI. For a buyer earning $8,000 a month, $132 is 132 divided by 8,000, or 1.65 percentage points of DTI. That can matter if you are close to a lender's limit.

So if qualifying is tight, the temporary buydown cannot rescue the file. The permanent one sometimes can.

Do seller credit limits treat them the same?

Yes. Seller money for either kind counts as an interested party contribution (money from someone with a stake in the sale, such as a seller, builder or agent).

Fannie Mae covers this in section B3-4.1-02. If "a temporary or permanent interest rate buydown" is paid for by an interested party, "the cost of that subsidy must be included in the IPC calculation." Likewise, HUD's handbook, section II.A.4.d.iii(G), says the FHA 6 percent limit includes interested party payment "for permanent and temporary interest rate buydowns."

Seller credit limits by loan type. Fannie Mae figures its limit on the lower of the sales price or the appraised value, so the last column assumes the home appraises at $400,000 or more. Sources: Fannie Mae Selling Guide B3-4.1-02 and HUD Handbook 4000.1, II.A.4.d.iii(G).
Loan and homeHow much you borrow against the valueSeller credit limitOn a $400,000 price
Fannie Mae, home you live in or second homeMore than 90 percent3 percent$12,000
Fannie Mae, home you live in or second home75.01 to 90 percent6 percent$24,000
Fannie Mae, home you live in or second home75 percent or less9 percent$36,000
Fannie Mae, investment propertyAny amount2 percent$8,000
FHAAny amount6 percent of the sales price$24,000

Check the math: $400,000 times 0.03 is $12,000, times 0.06 is $24,000, times 0.09 is $36,000, and times 0.02 is $8,000. In the example, the $8,184 fits under even the 3 percent limit.

There is one difference worth knowing. Fannie Mae does not allow a temporary buydown on an investment property, only on a home you live in or a second home. Points are not limited that way. So for a rental, the permanent buydown is the one on the table. On top of that, the 2 percent limit means seller money only goes so far.

Want the bigger picture on seller money? See our guide to a seller-paid buydown vs a lower price.

What if you sell or refinance early?

Then the two choices end very differently. With a temporary buydown, Fannie Mae's rules say leftover money may be credited toward your payoff, or returned to you or the lender, as the buydown agreement says. So read that agreement before closing.

With points, the money is already spent. If you refinance in year two, you have collected only part of what the points cost. In the example, two years of savings came to about $4,070 against $8,184 in points.

That is why the refinance question matters so much here. Nobody can promise what rates will do. But if you would refinance the moment rates fell, count that as a short hold, and short holds favor the temporary buydown. For what a refinance does to a 2-1 buydown in detail, see what happens if you refinance during a 2-1 buydown.

How are points handled at tax time?

Points get special rules. IRS Topic 504 explains that points are a form of prepaid interest. If you itemize, points paid to buy your main home may be deductible (subtracted from your taxable income) in the year you pay them, when every IRS test is met.

Seller-paid points have a twist. The IRS treats points the seller pays on your loan as if you paid them yourself. In return, you must subtract that amount from your basis, which is your cost in the home for tax purposes.

Taxes are personal, so ask a tax professional how either choice fits your return. This page is not tax advice. The IRS topic cited here covers points. It does not address a temporary buydown account, so ask a tax professional about that too.

When does each kind of buydown make sense?

When you can name your timeline, the choice gets simple. Use this quick check.

  • A temporary buydown tends to fit when you expect to sell or refinance within a few years, you qualify easily at the full payment, and the first two years will be tight for a reason you can name.
  • A permanent buydown tends to fit when you plan to keep the loan past your break-even month, you need a lower full payment to qualify, or the home is an investment property.
  • Run both if you are unsure how long you will keep the loan. The break-even month tells you which side of the line you are on.

New homes are a common place to face this choice. Builders sometimes offer incentive money, and some let you choose how it is spent. If yours does, ask for both versions in writing before you pick.

Then follow these steps:

  1. Qualify at the full payment first. Ask your lender to run your numbers at the note rate before you count on any buydown.
  2. Get both prices on the same day. Ask for the cost of a 2-1 buydown and the payment drop from the same dollars in points.
  3. Find your break-even month. Divide the cost of the points by the monthly savings.
  4. Check the seller credit limit. Add every seller dollar that counts toward your loan's limit and compare the total with that limit.
  5. Read the Closing Disclosure. Points appear on page 2, Section A. Seller money for a buydown should show either in the Seller-Paid column on page 2 or as Seller Credits in Section L, so confirm every seller dollar appears.

Want all three temporary structures side by side? Our mortgage rate buydown guide covers the 2-1, the 3-2-1 and the 1-0.

The Valley West take. In the assumed example above, the temporary buydown came out ahead for about four years, and the permanent buydown came out ahead after that. Your numbers will differ. So the honest answer to "which is better" is a date, not a product. Price both on your own loan, find your break-even month, and pick the one that matches how long you expect to keep the loan. If qualifying is tight, remember that only points lower the payment the lender uses.

Temporary vs permanent buydown: FAQ

Which one saves more

Is a temporary or permanent buydown better?

It depends on how long you keep the loan. In this guide's example, the same $8,184 favored the temporary buydown for about the first four years. After that, the permanent buydown pulled ahead, because it keeps lowering the payment for the life of the loan.

How do you find the break-even point on discount points?

Divide the cost of the points by the monthly payment savings. In this guide's example, $8,184 divided by $132 is 62 months. Counting the smaller balance a lower rate leaves you, the crossover came sooner, at about 49 months.

Does a temporary buydown help you qualify for a mortgage?

Under Fannie Mae and FHA rules, no. Both have lenders qualify you at the note rate, which is the full rate in your loan contract. A permanent buydown can help, because it lowers that note rate and the full payment.

Rules and limits

Do both buydowns count toward seller credit limits?

Yes. Fannie Mae counts seller money for a temporary or permanent buydown toward its 3, 6 or 9 percent limit on a home you live in. HUD counts both toward the FHA 6 percent limit.

Can you get a temporary buydown on an investment property?

Not on a loan sold to Fannie Mae. Its rules allow temporary buydowns only on a home you live in or a second home. Discount points are not limited that way.

What happens to a temporary buydown if I refinance early?

Under Fannie Mae's rules, leftover money may be credited toward your payoff, or returned to you or the lender, as the buydown agreement says. Points, by contrast, are already spent.

Article history

  • October 3, 2026. First published. Fannie Mae Selling Guide sections B2-1.4-04 (dated 08/07/2024) and B3-4.1-02 (dated 05/07/2025) were read on Fannie Mae's site that day, using the date shown on each section's own heading.

    HUD Handbook 4000.1 was read on HUD's site that day, in the edition whose pages are marked last revised August 12, 2026. IRS Topic 504 (marked reviewed or updated September 24, 2026) and the CFPB's page on discount points were also read that day.

    The arithmetic in each example was rechecked: the $8,184 account, the 62-month and 49-month break-even counts, the comparison table, the DTI example and the four credit limits.

  • Next review: when Fannie Mae or HUD change buydown or seller credit rules, or by January 15, 2027, whichever comes first.

About the publisher

VW
Published by
Valley West Editorial
Valley West Mortgage · NMLS #65506

Valley West Editorial is the content team of Valley West Mortgage, an independent mortgage lender based in Las Vegas and holding NMLS #65506. Check current company authorization in Nevada through NMLS Consumer Access. The rules and limits in this article were checked against the primary sources listed below. The example dollar amounts are assumptions chosen for the arithmetic.

Find out which buydown fits how long you will keep the loan

One conversation can cover three things. First, whether you qualify at the full payment. Second, what a temporary buydown and points each look like on your own loan. Third, where your break-even month falls.

Start your fast quote

Across Valley West: Government loans add their own rules to this choice. Our FHA loan site explains how FHA's 6 percent cap on seller help works in Las Vegas, and our VA loan site walks through a seller-funded temporary buydown on a VA home loan.

Keep reading

Sources: Fannie Mae and HUD

Sources: CFPB and IRS

Verification note

Last updated: October 3, 2026. Every source listed above was read on October 3, 2026, and the arithmetic in each example was rechecked.

What this page refuses to do

It quotes no interest rate, no annual percentage rate, no loan amount, no loan term, no down payment and no monthly payment amount on any loan. The monthly figures it uses are differences between choices, and they leave out taxes and insurance. The price, the seller's dollars, the buydown account, the monthly drops, the income and the amounts owed are assumptions chosen for the arithmetic, not quotes.

It names no lender other than our own. It is not legal or tax advice. Your purchase contract, your note and your buydown agreement control.

This article is for general information and is not legal, tax or financial advice. Valley West Mortgage is an independent mortgage lender, NMLS #65506, licensed in Nevada. Equal Housing Opportunity. Valley West Mortgage is not affiliated with, or acting on behalf of or at the direction of, Fannie Mae or any government agency, including HUD, the FHA, the VA and the IRS. This page is not from HUD, the FHA or the VA and was not approved by any of them. FHA loans are insured by the FHA and made by private lenders. Nothing on this page is an offer of credit, a rate quote, a preapproval or a commitment to lend, and loan terms vary by borrower, property and program. All figures are illustrative and not a quote, offer, or commitment to lend.

Talk to a Valley West specialist

Valley West Mortgage, NMLS #65506. Equal Housing Opportunity. Submitting this form is not an application and is not a commitment to lend.

Seller Buydown vs Price Reduction

Buydowns and Seller Credits

Seller-paid buydown or price cut: which saves you more?

Published October 1, 2026 · 18 min read

Valley West Mortgage is an independent mortgage lender, NMLS #65506, based in Las Vegas, Nevada. Equal Housing Opportunity. Not affiliated with Fannie Mae, HUD, the FHA, the Department of Veterans Affairs or any other government agency. Figures on this page are illustrative and are not an offer of credit or a commitment to lend.

When the seller's dollars are the same, a price cut saved more in total in our example. A seller-paid buydown (seller money that lowers your early payments) saves more in the first two years.

Quick answer: A seller-paid buydown is money the seller puts up at closing to lower your monthly payment for a short time, often two years. A price cut lowers what you borrow for the whole life of the loan. In this guide's example, with the same dollars, the price cut comes out ahead, and its lead grows the longer you keep the loan. The buydown wins on early relief. It can also come out ahead when the seller will give more as a credit than as a cut, if you keep the loan only a few years.

When a seller is willing to give up money, the seller-paid buydown vs price reduction question decides where that money goes. It can lower your payment for a couple of years, or it can lower the price for good.

Both sound like savings, and both are. But they save you money at different times and in different ways. This guide works one Las Vegas example by hand, shows when each choice wins, and covers the loan rules that can tip the answer.

Key takeaways

  • Same dollars, different timing. A buydown spends the seller's money in your first two years. A price cut spreads it over the whole loan.
  • In our example, the price cut wins in total. It also shrinks the interest charged on the money you did not borrow, so it pulls ahead over time.
  • Under Fannie Mae and FHA rules, the buydown does not help you qualify. Lenders size your loan on the full payment, not the lower starting payment.
  • Seller credits have limits. Fannie Mae caps them at 3, 6 or 9 percent on a home you live in, and FHA caps them at 6 percent. A price cut has no such cap.
  • In Nevada, a lower price does not lower your property tax by itself. The county sets taxable value by formula, not by what you paid.

What is a seller-paid buydown?

A seller-paid buydown is money the seller pays at closing to lower your monthly payment for a set time. The money goes into a buydown account, which is a separate fund that covers part of each payment for you. Your loan itself does not change. You still owe the full payment written in your loan papers once the account runs out.

A common kind is a 2-1 buydown. Your payment is lowest in year one, a bit higher in year two, and at the full amount from year three on. For a look at the three-year version, see how a 3-2-1 buydown works, month by month.

Fannie Mae, the company that buys many home loans from lenders, sets rules for these accounts. Its Selling Guide, section B2-1.4-04, says the money must sit in a custodial bank account, which is an account kept apart from the lender's own money. It also says your only interest in that money is to have it applied to your payments as they come due.

What does a price reduction change?

A price reduction lowers the price on your purchase contract. That one change ripples through the whole deal, and it lasts for the life of the loan.

  • You borrow less. If you keep the same cash down payment, every dollar cut from the price comes off your loan.
  • Your full payment drops for good. A smaller loan means a smaller payment every month, not just for two years.
  • You pay less interest. Interest is charged on what you owe, so a smaller loan costs less to carry.
  • It can help you qualify. A lower full payment improves your debt-to-income ratio, or DTI, which is your monthly debts divided by your monthly income before taxes.

If your down payment is set as a share of the price instead, part of the cut lowers the cash you bring to closing. The rest still comes off the loan.

The one idea to hold onto. A buydown lowers what you pay for a while. A price cut lowers what you owe. Only the second one keeps working after year two.

Seller-paid buydown vs price reduction: which saves more?

In the example below, the price cut saves more in total when the seller's dollars are the same. Here is the math, done by hand so you can copy it onto your own numbers. Every figure is an assumption chosen for the arithmetic. None of it is a quote, offer, or commitment to lend.

The setup, illustrative only. A buyer in Henderson agrees to buy a home for $400,000. The seller is willing to give up $10,000, either as a credit or as a price cut.

Choice 1, the buydown. Assume a 2-1 buydown account must cover $476 a month in year one and $244 a month in year two. Year one is 12 times $476, or $5,712. Year two is 12 times $244, or $2,928. The account costs $5,712 plus $2,928, or $8,640. The other $10,000 minus $8,640, or $1,360, goes toward the buyer's closing costs.

Choice 2, the price cut. The price drops to $400,000 minus $10,000, or $390,000. The buyer keeps the same cash down payment, so the loan shrinks by the full $10,000. Assume that cuts the principal and interest part of each monthly payment by $63. That is a difference between the two choices, before taxes and insurance.

Now count what each choice puts in your pocket. For the buydown, that is $8,640 of payment help plus $1,360 at closing, or $10,000. For the price cut, it is the $63 a month you save plus the smaller amount you still owe if you sell or refinance. That second number matters most, and it is the part most comparisons leave out.

The same $10,000 from the seller, two ways. Illustrative figures only, not a quote. The amounts owed are assumptions worked from the same loan math as the $63 figure.
If you sell or refinance afterBuydown: total helpPrice cut: payments savedPrice cut: less owedPrice cut: total
2 years$10,000$1,512about $9,770about $11,280
5 years$10,000$3,780about $9,360about $13,140
10 years$10,000$7,560about $8,480about $16,040

Check the first row. Two years is 24 months, and 24 times $63 is $1,512. Add the $9,770 you no longer owe, and the total is $11,282, or about $11,280. The five-year row is 60 times $63, or $3,780, plus $9,360. The ten-year row is 120 times $63, or $7,560, plus $8,480.

So why does the price cut come out ahead even at two years in this example? Because the $10,000 you never borrowed also never collects interest. The buydown hands you the seller's $10,000 and stops there. The price cut hands you the same $10,000, plus the interest you would have paid on it.

One honest caveat. This simple count ignores timing. The buydown puts its money in your hands in the first two years, when new owners often have the most costs. If that early cash keeps you off a credit card, it can be worth more than the totals show.

Has a seller offered you a credit or a price cut? Get both versions priced first.

Send the price, the seller's offer and your closing cost estimate. A Valley West loan officer can walk you through the buydown, the price cut and the seller credit limit on your own numbers.

The rules and examples on this page are current as of October 1, 2026.

Get your fast quote

What if the seller offers more as a credit than as a cut?

Then the answer depends on how long you keep the loan. Some sellers will give more as a credit than as a price cut, so this is the case to run before you sign.

Keep the same home. Say the seller offers a $10,000 credit or a $7,000 price cut. Assume the smaller cut lowers the principal and interest part of each monthly payment by $44, before taxes and insurance. Here is how the two compare over time:

A $10,000 credit against a $7,000 price cut. Illustrative figures only, not a quote. The amounts owed are assumptions worked from the same loan math.
If you sell or refinance after$10,000 credit$7,000 cut: payments saved$7,000 cut: less owed$7,000 cut: total
2 years$10,000$1,056about $6,840about $7,900
5 years$10,000$2,640about $6,550about $9,190
7 years$10,000$3,696about $6,330about $10,030
10 years$10,000$5,280about $5,930about $11,210

In this example, the credit is ahead for about the first seven years. After that, the smaller cut pulls ahead. Check the seven-year row: 84 months times $44 is $3,696, plus $6,330 is $10,026. That is just past $10,000.

So here is a simple rule. If you expect to move or refinance within a few years, a bigger credit can beat a smaller cut. If you plan to stay a long time, the cut tends to win.

How much does a 2-1 buydown cost the seller?

It costs whatever your payment help adds up to over the two years. There is no set fee. The account has to hold enough to cover the gap between your lower payments and your full payment, month by month.

Here is the formula. Take the monthly gap in year one and multiply it by 12. Do the same for year two. Add the two numbers. In the example, that was 12 times $476 plus 12 times $244, or $8,640.

The gaps depend on your loan size and your rate, so the cost moves with them. A bigger loan or a higher rate means a bigger account. Fannie Mae's section B2-1.4-04 also says it "does not place a limit on the total dollar amount" of a buydown. Seller credit limits still apply, as the next section shows. For a full payment schedule on your own numbers, our mortgage calculators include a buydown tool.

How do seller credit limits change the choice?

They can make the choice for you. Money from the seller for a buydown counts as an interested party contribution (a payment from someone with a stake in the sale). The seller, a builder and an agent all count. A price cut is not a contribution at all, so no cap applies to it.

Fannie Mae's section B3-4.1-02 says the cost of a seller-funded buydown "must be included" in that calculation. Here are the limits that apply:

Seller credit limits by loan type. Fannie Mae figures its limit on the lower of the sales price or the appraised value, so the last column assumes the home appraises at $400,000 or more. Sources: Fannie Mae Selling Guide B3-4.1-02 and HUD Handbook 4000.1, II.A.4.d.iii(G).
Loan and homeHow much you borrow against the valueSeller credit limitOn a $400,000 price
Fannie Mae, home you live in or second homeMore than 90 percent3 percent$12,000
Fannie Mae, home you live in or second home75.01 to 90 percent6 percent$24,000
Fannie Mae, home you live in or second home75 percent or less9 percent$36,000
Fannie Mae, investment propertyAny amount2 percent$8,000
FHAAny amount6 percent of the sales price$24,000

Check the math: $400,000 times 0.03 is $12,000, times 0.06 is $24,000, times 0.09 is $36,000, and times 0.02 is $8,000. In the main example, the $10,000 credit fits under even the 3 percent limit.

Two more rules matter. First, Fannie Mae says seller credits must be "equal to or less than the sum of the borrower's closing costs". Second, money over the limit is a sales concession, and it "must be deducted from the property's sales price". In plain terms, extra credit does not help you, and it can shrink the value the lender uses for your loan. FHA has a similar rule: seller money over 6 percent, or over your actual closing costs, is subtracted from the price before the lender sizes your loan. A price cut avoids both problems.

Note one more limit. Fannie Mae does not allow a temporary buydown on an investment property, only on a home you live in or a second home. So for a rental, a price cut or a credit toward closing costs are the usual choices.

For how seller credits work across loan programs, see our guide to who pays closing costs in Nevada.

What if the home appraises low?

Then a price cut can save the deal, and a buydown cannot. The appraisal is an independent estimate of the home's value, ordered for the lender.

Fannie Mae's section B2-1.2-01 says that on a purchase, the property value is "the lower of the sales price or the current appraised value". So the lender uses whichever number is smaller.

Say the $400,000 home appraises at $392,000. With the buydown, the lender values the home at $392,000. The $400,000 minus $392,000, or $8,000, gap usually has to come from your own cash or a new deal with the seller. With a $10,000 price cut to $390,000, the price is already under the appraisal. The gap is gone.

Also, a buydown account cannot shrink the loan for this test. Fannie Mae's section B2-1.4-04 says buydown funds "cannot be used to reduce the mortgage amount" in the loan-to-value ratio. That ratio is the loan amount divided by the home's value.

Does a lower price lower your property tax in Nevada?

Not by itself. Many national articles say a price cut lowers your property taxes. That is true in places where the tax is based on the sale price. Nevada works differently.

Under NRS 361.227, the county assessor sets a home's taxable value by formula. The land is valued at its full cash value. The building is valued at what it would cost to replace, minus 1.5 percent a year for age. The formula does not use your purchase price directly. Sale prices come in only as a check that taxable value stays at or below market value.

Nevada also limits how fast the tax bill on your main home can rise. NRS 361.4723 sets that limit at 3 percent over the prior year's bill for a single-family home that is the owner's primary residence. So in Clark County, the case for a price cut rests on the smaller loan, not on a smaller tax bill.

When does a seller-paid buydown make more sense?

When early cash matters more than the long-run total. Use this quick check.

  • A price cut tends to fit when you need help qualifying, the appraisal could come in low, you plan to keep the loan for years, or the seller credit is near its limit.
  • A buydown can fit when you qualify easily at the full payment and the first two years will be tight for a reason you can name. It helps most when the seller will give more as a credit than as a cut.
  • Run both if you are unsure how long you will keep the loan. The break-even year tells you which one fits.

Keep the qualifying rule in mind. Fannie Mae's section B2-1.4-04 says the lender "must qualify the borrower based on the note rate" (the full rate in your loan contract). The lower bought-down rate does not count. HUD's FHA handbook says the same thing for FHA loans. So under Fannie Mae and FHA rules, a temporary buydown does not help you get approved. It only helps once you are approved.

New homes are a common place to see this choice. Builders often put their incentive money toward a buydown, and our conventional loan site explains how new-home builder incentives in Las Vegas get turned into a rate buydown.

And if you think you might refinance soon, count that in. A refinance ends the buydown early. Under Fannie Mae's rules, leftover money is credited toward your payoff or returned as the buydown agreement says. A price cut, by contrast, carries its smaller balance into the new loan.

How do you ask the seller for the right one?

  1. Qualify at the full payment first. Ask your lender to run your numbers at the note rate before you make an offer.
  2. Price both choices in dollars. Get the buydown cost and the monthly drop from a price cut on your own loan.
  3. Pick your break-even year. Compare the totals at the year you expect to sell or refinance.
  4. Check the seller credit limit. Add up the seller dollars that count toward your loan's limit, such as the buydown and closing cost credits, and compare the total with that limit.
  5. Write it into the contract. Name a buydown as a seller credit with a dollar amount, or write the lower price.
  6. Read the Closing Disclosure. This is the final form that lists your loan costs, and it should show the seller's credit or the new price.

Want the bigger picture on buydowns? Our mortgage rate buydown guide covers the 2-1, the 3-2-1 and the 1-0 side by side.

The Valley West take. In the examples above, a price cut came out ahead when the seller's dollars were the same, because it keeps paying you back after year two. A buydown can still be the right call when the first two years are the hard part and the seller will give more as a credit. Either way, price both on your own loan, check the credit limit, and decide at the year you expect to move or refinance. The appraisal and the lender's final review can still change the numbers.

Buydown vs price cut: FAQ

Which one saves more

Is a seller-paid buydown better than a price reduction?

Usually not in total when the dollars are the same, as in this guide's example. A price cut lowers your loan for its whole life and cuts the interest on the money you did not borrow. A buydown is better for early cash in the first two years, or when the seller offers more as a credit than as a cut.

How much does a 2-1 buydown cost the seller?

It costs the sum of your payment help over two years. Multiply the monthly gap in year one by 12, do the same for year two, and add them. In this guide's illustrative example, that came to $8,640.

Does a buydown help you qualify for a mortgage?

Under Fannie Mae and FHA rules, no. Both have lenders qualify you at the note rate, which is the full rate in your loan contract. A price cut can help, because it lowers the full payment. Other loan programs can differ.

Rules and limits

Does a seller-paid buydown count toward seller credit limits?

Yes. On a Fannie Mae loan it counts toward the 3, 6 or 9 percent limit for a home you live in. On an FHA loan it counts toward the 6 percent limit. A price cut does not count toward any limit.

Does a lower purchase price lower property taxes in Nevada?

Not by itself. Under NRS 361.227, the county assessor sets taxable value by formula, using land value and the replacement cost of the building (what it would cost to rebuild it, less wear for age), not your purchase price directly. NRS 361.4723 also limits the yearly rise in the tax bill on a primary residence to 3 percent.

What happens to buydown money if I sell or refinance early?

Under Fannie Mae's rules, leftover money is credited toward your loan payoff, or returned to you or the lender as the buydown agreement says. Read that agreement before closing.

Article history

  • October 1, 2026. First published. Fannie Mae Selling Guide sections B2-1.4-04 (dated 08/07/2024), B3-4.1-02 (dated 05/07/2025) and B2-1.2-01 (dated 06/01/2022) were read on Fannie Mae's site that day, using the date shown on each section's own heading.

    HUD Handbook 4000.1 was read on HUD's site that day, in the edition whose pages are marked last revised August 12, 2026. NRS 361.227 and 361.4723 were read on the Nevada Legislature's site.

    Every dollar figure was worked by hand: the $8,640 account, the $1,360 credit, both comparison tables, the seven-year crossover and the four credit limits.

  • Next scheduled review: January 15, 2027. The Fannie Mae and HUD sections are checked again then for any change in the seller credit limits.

About the publisher

VW
Published by
Valley West Editorial
Valley West Mortgage · NMLS #65506

Valley West Editorial is the content team of Valley West Mortgage, an independent mortgage lender based in Las Vegas and holding NMLS #65506. Check current company authorization in Nevada through NMLS Consumer Access. Every figure in this article was checked against the primary sources listed below.

Find out which seller offer fits your purchase

One conversation can cover three things. First, whether you qualify at the full payment. Second, what the buydown and the price cut each look like on your own loan. Third, how the seller's offer adds up against your credit limit.

Start your fast quote

Across Valley West: The same choice plays out a little differently on government loans. Our FHA loan site has an FHA buyer's look at taking a seller credit or a lower price. Our VA loan site covers the VA version, where seller-paid buydown money can count toward the VA's limit on seller concessions (extra help a seller gives a buyer).

Keep reading

Sources: Fannie Mae

Sources: HUD and Nevada law

Verification note

Last updated: October 1, 2026. Every source listed above was read live on October 1, 2026. Every dollar figure was recomputed by hand.

What this page refuses to do

It quotes no interest rate, no annual percentage rate, no loan amount, no loan term, no down payment and no monthly payment amount on any loan. The monthly figures it uses are differences between two choices, and they leave out taxes and insurance. The price, the seller's offer, the buydown account, the monthly drops and the amounts owed are assumptions chosen for the arithmetic, not quotes.

It names no lender other than our own. It is not legal or tax advice. Your purchase contract, your note and your buydown agreement control.

This article is for general information and is not legal, tax or financial advice. Valley West Mortgage is an independent mortgage lender, NMLS #65506, licensed in Nevada. Equal Housing Opportunity. Valley West Mortgage is not affiliated with, or acting on behalf of or at the direction of, Fannie Mae, HUD, the FHA, the Department of Veterans Affairs or any other government agency. Nothing on this page is an offer of credit, a rate quote, a preapproval or a commitment to lend, and loan terms vary by borrower, property and program. All figures are illustrative and not a quote, offer, or commitment to lend.

Talk to a Valley West specialist

Valley West Mortgage, NMLS #65506. Equal Housing Opportunity. Submitting this form is not an application and is not a commitment to lend.

FHA 2-1 Buydown: Rules, Costs, Limits

FHA Loans and Buydowns

Can you do a 2-1 buydown on an FHA loan?

Published September 30, 2026 · 14 min read

Valley West Mortgage is an independent mortgage lender, NMLS #65506, based in Las Vegas, Nevada. Equal Housing Opportunity. Not affiliated with HUD, the FHA, Fannie Mae or any government agency. Figures on this page are illustrative and are not an offer of credit or a commitment to lend.

Yes. An FHA loan can carry a 2-1 buydown (money paid up front to lower your first two years of payments) on a home purchase, and HUD sets four rules for it.

Quick answer: An FHA 2-1 buydown is money paid up front, by a seller, builder or other party, that lowers your payment for the first two years of a fixed-rate FHA purchase loan. First, you must qualify at the full payment in your loan papers. Second, seller or builder money for it counts toward FHA's limit of 6 percent of the sales price. Third, the money sits in a separate account with strict rules. Fourth, FHA bars temporary buydowns on refinances and adjustable-rate loans.

An FHA 2-1 buydown can make the first two years of a new home cheaper, and HUD allows it on a purchase. Sellers and home builders sometimes offer one as an incentive to close a sale.

But FHA runs it by its own rules, and they differ from a conventional loan in ways that change the deal. This guide covers what HUD's handbook says, how the 6 percent seller limit works, and what happens to leftover money if you sell early. It also works a Las Vegas example by hand.

Key takeaways

  • Yes, on a purchase. An FHA loan can carry a 2-1 buydown when you buy a home with a fixed-rate loan.
  • You qualify at the full payment. HUD tells lenders to use the note rate, which is the rate written in your loan papers, not the lower starting rate.
  • It counts toward the 6 percent limit. Seller or builder money for a buydown sits inside FHA's cap of 6 percent of the sales price, along with closing costs and discount points (fees paid for a lower rate).
  • Leftover money has rules. If you sell or pay off the loan early, unused buydown money cannot go back to the seller or builder.
  • No refinance, no adjustable rate. HUD does not allow a temporary buydown on an FHA refinance or on an FHA adjustable-rate mortgage.

What is an FHA 2-1 buydown?

An FHA 2-1 buydown is a temporary buydown on an FHA loan. A buydown is money paid up front to lower your monthly payment for a set time. With a 2-1 buydown, that time is the first two years.

The name tells you the pattern. Your payment is lowest in year one. It steps up in year two. From year three on, you pay the full payment written in your note, which is the loan contract you sign. Your note rate never changes. The buydown only covers part of each payment for two years.

At closing, the money goes into a buydown account, which is a separate fund that pays part of each payment for you. HUD's handbook calls this a temporary interest rate buydown. For a general look at how buydowns are built, including the three-year version, see how a 3-2-1 buydown works, month by month.

Can you do a 2-1 buydown on an FHA loan?

Yes, when you are buying a home with a fixed-rate FHA loan. HUD Handbook 4000.1 is the rulebook lenders follow on FHA loans. It sets out how a temporary buydown is underwritten, how it is funded and how its account works. Underwriting is the lender's review of whether you can repay.

The same handbook also names two places a temporary buydown is not allowed:

  • Refinances. Section II.A.8.d.iii says temporary buydowns "are not permitted with refinance transactions." That covers every FHA refinance, including a streamline refinance, which is a faster FHA-to-FHA refinance with less paperwork.
  • Adjustable-rate loans. Section II.A.8.f.vi says temporary buydowns "are not permitted with ARM transactions." An ARM is an adjustable-rate mortgage, a loan whose rate can change over time.

So an FHA 2-1 buydown lives in one place: a purchase with a fixed-rate loan. If you already own the home with an FHA loan, a new temporary buydown is off the table. You can still lower a rate for the life of the loan with discount points, which are fees paid at closing for a lower rate. Our guide to when buying discount points pays off covers that math.

The one idea to hold onto. An FHA buydown lowers what you pay for two years. It does not lower what the lender needs you to afford. Those are two different numbers, and HUD only lets the lender look at the second one.

What rate does FHA use to qualify you with a 2-1 buydown?

The note rate, every time. HUD's handbook says the lender "must use the Note rate when calculating principal and interest" on a loan with a temporary buydown. The same line appears in two places. One covers loans approved through FHA's automated system, in section II.A.4.a.iii. The other covers loans a person underwrites by hand, in section II.A.5.d.vii.

In plain terms, the lower year-one payment does not help you qualify. The lender sizes your loan on the full payment you will owe from year three on. That payment goes into your debt-to-income ratio, or DTI. DTI is your monthly debts divided by your monthly income before taxes. Our plain guide to debt-to-income ratios shows how lenders count it.

That rule is a real protection. Year three is the payment you were approved for, so the step-up in year three should not come as a shock to your budget. It also gives you a simple way to decide:

  • If your DTI works at the full payment, a buydown is extra savings for the first two years.
  • If your DTI works only at the lower year-one payment, a buydown will not get the loan approved. Look at a lower price, a larger down payment or paying off a debt first.

Does a seller-paid buydown count toward FHA's 6 percent limit?

Yes. On an FHA loan, money from the seller for a buydown counts toward a cap. HUD calls this money an interested party contribution, which is a payment from someone with a stake in the sale, such as the seller, a real estate agent, a builder or the lender.

Section II.A.4.d.iii(G) of the handbook says interested parties "may contribute up to 6 percent of the sales price" toward your closing costs. That 6 percent limit also includes money for "permanent and temporary interest rate buydowns." Here is what shares that one 6 percent pool:

What counts inside FHA's 6 percent limit on seller and builder money. Source: HUD Handbook 4000.1, II.A.4.d.iii(G).
Item paid by the seller or builderInside the 6 percent?
Origination fees and other closing costsYes
Prepaid items, such as the first year of insuranceYes
Discount pointsYes
A temporary buydown, such as a 2-1Yes
The upfront mortgage insurance premium (UFMIP, the one-time FHA insurance charge)Yes
Real estate agent commissions the seller pays by local custom or lawNo
A lender credit from premium pricing, when the lender is not also the seller, agent or builderNo

The last row needs a word. Premium pricing means the lender gives you a credit in exchange for a higher rate. HUD leaves that credit out of the 6 percent limit, as long as the lender is not also the seller, the agent or the builder. The handbook also bars interested party money from covering your minimum required investment. That is the cash FHA requires you to put into the purchase yourself.

For how seller credits work across FHA, VA and conventional loans, see our guide to who pays closing costs in Nevada.

What does the math look like on a Las Vegas home?

Here is a full example, done by hand so you can copy it onto your own numbers. Every figure is an assumption chosen for the arithmetic. None of it is a quote, and it names no interest rate or payment.

The setup, illustrative only. A buyer in Henderson agrees to buy a home for $400,000 with an FHA loan. The seller offers to pay for a 2-1 buydown and part of the closing costs.

The cap. FHA's limit is 6 percent of the sales price. That is $400,000 times 0.06, or $24,000.

The buydown account. Assume the account must cover $5,400 of payments in year one and $2,700 in year two. $5,400 plus $2,700 is $8,100, so the seller deposits $8,100.

The closing costs. The seller also pays $9,500 of the buyer's closing costs and prepaid items.

The total. $8,100 plus $9,500 is $17,600. That is under the $24,000 cap, with $24,000 minus $17,600, or $6,400, of room left.

The same $400,000 purchase with two seller packages. Illustrative figures only. The FHA cap is 6 percent of the sales price, or $24,000.
Seller packageBuydownClosing costs and prepaidsDiscount pointsTotalAgainst the cap
Package A$8,100$9,500$0$17,600$6,400 under
Package B$8,100$12,400$6,500$27,000$3,000 over

Package A fits with room to spare. Package B looks generous, but it breaks the FHA rule. The next section shows what that $3,000 does to the deal.

Is a seller or builder offering you a buydown? Get the 6 percent math checked first.

Send the price, the seller's offer and the closing cost estimate. You get the buydown, the credits and the cap added up using HUD's handbook rules.

Current as of September 30, 2026.

Get your fast quote

What happens if the seller credits go over 6 percent?

The extra is treated as an inducement to purchase. That is HUD's term for seller money beyond what the rules allow. Section II.A.4.d.iii(H) says an inducement causes "a dollar-for-dollar reduction to the purchase price" when the lender figures the home's value for the loan.

In Package B, the $3,000 over the cap comes off the price the lender uses. The lender sizes the loan as if the home cost $400,000 minus $3,000, or $397,000, as long as the appraisal comes in at $397,000 or more. You still pay $400,000 for the home. So the gap has to come from somewhere, and it usually means more cash from you at closing.

There are two clean ways to fix an offer like Package B:

  • Trim the package. Drop $3,000 of the discount points, and the total lands at exactly $24,000.
  • Trade credits for price. Ask for a lower price and fewer credits. A lower price also lowers the cap itself. At $397,000, the cap is $397,000 times 0.06, or $23,820. So run the math again on the new price.

The handbook also says any seller money above your actual closing costs, prepaid items and points is treated as an inducement too. So a credit that sounds large on paper only helps up to what you actually owe at closing.

What happens to unused buydown money if you sell or refinance?

It cannot go back to whoever paid for it. The handbook covers this in section II.A.6.a.ix. It requires an escrow for the buydown, which is an account held by a third party that pays out only under set rules.

The escrow agreement must not do two things:

  • Send leftover money back to the provider if the home is sold or the loan is paid off in full. So a seller or builder who funded it does not get it back.
  • Pay leftover money to you in cash, unless your own money was used to set up the account.

Here is how the leftover works in our example. The buyer sells after 14 payments. Year one used its full $5,400. Two of year two's twelve months used one-sixth of $2,700, or $450. That is $5,850 used out of $8,100, which leaves $2,250. Check it the other way: ten of twelve months remain, and ten-twelfths of $2,700 is also $2,250.

HUD's section does not say where that $2,250 goes, only where it cannot go. Your buydown agreement sets the rest, so read it before closing. Ask whether leftover money is credited toward your loan balance when the loan is paid off.

One more rule sits in the same section. The escrow agent pays the buydown money to the lender or the company that collects your payments. If those payments stop for any reason, you owe the full payment in your note.

A refinance during the buydown years raises the same question, since paying off the old loan ends the buydown. Count any leftover money you would give up before you compare the savings.

A Nevada note on words. When people here say "escrow," they usually mean the escrow or title company that closes the sale. Nevada licenses independent escrow agencies under chapter 645A of the Nevada Revised Statutes, and title agents and escrow officers under chapter 692A. A buydown escrow is a different thing. It is the account that pays part of your monthly payment for two years after closing.

FHA or conventional: which handles a buydown better?

Both allow a temporary buydown on a purchase, and both qualify you at the note rate. Fannie Mae's Selling Guide, section B2-1.4-04, says the lender "must qualify the borrower based on the note rate." The big difference is how much the seller can pay when your down payment is small.

How FHA and Fannie Mae conventional loans treat a temporary buydown. Sources: HUD Handbook 4000.1 and the Fannie Mae Selling Guide, sections B2-1.4-04 and B3-4.1-02.
RuleFHAFannie Mae conventional
Rate used to qualify youNote rateNote rate
Seller money limit, home you live in6 percent of the sales price3, 6 or 9 percent, based on how much you borrow against the value
Temporary buydown on a refinanceNot allowedNot allowed on a cash-out refinance (one that pays you cash)
Temporary buydown on an adjustable-rate loanNot allowedAllowed only on certain ARM plans
Leftover money at payoffCannot go back to the seller or builderCredited toward the payoff, or returned to you or a lender that funded it if the agreement allows

The seller limit is where FHA can differ most for a buyer with a small down payment. Fannie Mae's section B3-4.1-02 ties its seller limit to the size of the loan compared with the home's value. On a home you will live in, the smallest down payments get the lowest limit, 3 percent. FHA allows 6 percent no matter how much you put down. On the $400,000 example, FHA's 6 percent is $24,000. A 3 percent limit would be $12,000.

A cash-out refinance is one where you borrow more than you owe and take the difference in cash. For the full comparison beyond buydowns, including mortgage insurance, see our guide to FHA vs. conventional loans.

How do you set up an FHA 2-1 buydown in a purchase contract?

  1. Qualify at the full payment first. Ask your lender to run your numbers at the note rate before you write an offer. A buydown will not change that answer.
  2. Write the buydown into the contract. Name it as a seller or builder credit and state the dollar amount for the buydown account.
  3. Add up every seller dollar. Put the buydown, closing costs, prepaid items and points in one list, and compare the total with 6 percent of the price.
  4. Keep the credits at or under your real costs. Seller money above your actual closing costs, prepaids and points is treated as an inducement.
  5. Read the buydown agreement before closing. Check who holds the account, when it pays and what happens to any leftover if you sell or pay off early.
  6. Check the Closing Disclosure. HUD requires the lender to document seller money on the sales contract and the Closing Disclosure, the final form that lists your loan costs.

Want the bigger picture on buydowns, including how they compare with a price cut? Our mortgage rate buydown guide covers the 2-1 and 3-2-1 side by side.

The Valley West take. A 2-1 buydown on an FHA purchase can lower what you pay in the first two years. Seller money can also go to a price cut or to closing costs, and a seller may build the cost of a buydown into the price, so compare the options before you sign. The catch is that it has to share one 6 percent pool with your closing costs. So add up the whole seller package before you sign, qualify at the full payment, and read the buydown agreement. Doing that helps you avoid a surprise at closing, though the appraisal and the lender's final review can still change the numbers.

FHA 2-1 buydown: FAQ

The rules

Can you do a 2-1 buydown on an FHA loan?

Yes, on a home purchase with a fixed-rate FHA loan. HUD Handbook 4000.1 allows temporary buydowns on FHA purchases. It does not allow them on FHA refinances or on FHA adjustable-rate mortgages.

Does FHA qualify you at the bought-down rate?

No. HUD tells lenders to use the note rate, which is the rate in your loan papers, when figuring principal and interest on a loan with a temporary buydown. The lower year-one payment does not help you qualify.

Can you get a 2-1 buydown on an FHA refinance?

No. HUD Handbook 4000.1, section II.A.8.d.iii, says temporary interest rate buydowns are not permitted with refinance transactions. That covers every FHA refinance.

Paying for it

Does a seller-paid buydown count toward FHA's 6 percent limit?

Yes. Seller, builder or agent money for a temporary buydown counts toward the limit of 6 percent of the sales price. It shares that limit with closing costs, prepaid items, discount points and any upfront mortgage insurance the seller pays.

What happens if seller credits go over 6 percent on an FHA loan?

The amount over 6 percent is treated as an inducement to purchase. The lender takes it off the price, dollar for dollar, when it figures the value used for your loan. That usually means you bring more cash to closing.

What happens to unused FHA buydown money if I sell early?

It cannot go back to the seller or builder who paid for it. It also cannot be paid to you in cash, unless your own money set up the account. Your buydown agreement says where it goes, so ask whether it is credited toward your loan payoff.

Article history

  • September 30, 2026. First published. HUD Handbook 4000.1 was read on HUD's site that day, in the edition marked last revised August 12, 2026. The sections quoted are II.A.4.a.iii, II.A.4.d.iii(G) and (H), II.A.5.d.vii, II.A.6.a.ix, II.A.8.d.iii and II.A.8.f.vi.

    The same buydown lines were compared with the edition issued November 26, 2025, and they match. Fannie Mae Selling Guide sections B2-1.4-04 and B3-4.1-02 were read on Fannie Mae's site that day. NRS chapters 645A and 692A were read on the Nevada Legislature's site.

    Every dollar figure on the page was worked by hand: the $24,000 cap, the $8,100 account, the $17,600 and $27,000 packages, the $397,000 figure, the $23,820 cap and the $2,250 leftover.

  • Next scheduled review: January 15, 2027. The FHA refinance and underwriting sections carry November 10, 2026 dates in the handbook and are checked again then.

About the publisher

VW
Published by
Valley West Editorial
Valley West Mortgage · NMLS #65506

Valley West Editorial is the content team of Valley West Mortgage, an independent mortgage lender based in Las Vegas and holding NMLS #65506. Check current company authorization in Nevada through NMLS Consumer Access. Every figure in this article was checked against the primary sources listed below.

Find out whether a buydown fits your FHA purchase

One conversation covers three things. First, whether you qualify at the full payment. Second, how the seller's offer adds up against the 6 percent limit. Third, what the buydown agreement should say before you sign.

Start your fast quote

Across Valley West: The 6 percent limit covers more than a buydown, so it helps to see every seller credit in one place. Our FHA loan site keeps a Las Vegas walk-through of what an FHA seller can pay for, with the items that fit under the cap.

Keep reading

Sources: HUD and FHA

Sources: Fannie Mae and Nevada law

Verification note

Last updated: September 30, 2026. Every source listed above was read live on September 30, 2026. Every dollar figure was recomputed by hand.

What this page refuses to do

It quotes no interest rate, no annual percentage rate, no loan amount, no down payment and no payment on the loan. The price, the buydown account, the closing costs and the points in the example are assumptions chosen for the arithmetic, not quotes.

It names no lender other than our own. It is not legal or tax advice. Your note, your purchase contract and your buydown agreement control.

This article is for general information and is not legal, tax or financial advice. Valley West Mortgage is an independent mortgage lender, NMLS #65506, licensed in Nevada. Equal Housing Opportunity. Valley West Mortgage is not affiliated with, or acting on behalf of or at the direction of, HUD, the FHA, Fannie Mae or any other government agency. Nothing on this page is an offer of credit, a rate quote, a preapproval or a commitment to lend, and loan terms vary by borrower, property and program. All figures are illustrative and not a quote, offer, or commitment to lend.

Talk to a Valley West specialist

Valley West Mortgage, NMLS #65506. Equal Housing Opportunity. Submitting this form is not an application and is not a commitment to lend.

Can You Refinance a 2-1 Buydown?

Rates and Refinancing

Can you refinance a 2-1 buydown? Yes. Where the leftover money goes

Published September 26, 2026 · 22 min read

Valley West Mortgage is an independent mortgage lender, NMLS #65506, based in Las Vegas, Nevada. Equal Housing Opportunity. Not affiliated with HUD, the FHA, the VA or any government agency. Figures on this page are illustrative and are not an offer of credit or a commitment to lend.

Yes. A 2-1 buydown is a two-year discount, and it does not lock you in.

Quick answer: You can refinance a 2-1 buydown whenever the new loan's rules allow. The buydown cuts your payment for two years but never changes your note rate (the rate in your loan papers), and FHA and VA refinance tests use that note rate. The buydown account (the prepaid money covering the discount) does not vanish at payoff. It is credited to your payoff or returned as your agreement says, and FHA never lets it go back to the seller or builder.

A buydown is a discount on your first two years, not a new rate. The seller, the builder or the lender pays money into an account at closing. Each month, part of your payment comes out of that account instead of your pocket.

That setup raises three fair questions the day rates drop. Can you refinance before the two years are up? What happens to the money still sitting in the account? And is a refinance worth it when your payment is already low? This guide answers all three, with a worked example you can copy onto your own numbers.

Key takeaways

  • Nothing in a buydown stops a refinance. The waiting period comes from the new loan's rules. Fannie Mae's guide lists no loan-age rule for a conventional rate-and-term refinance. An FHA streamline (a lighter-paperwork refinance into the same loan type) needs six payments, six full months since the first payment due date, and 210 days from closing. A VA streamline needs six payments and 210 days from the first payment due date.
  • The tests use your note rate. An FHA streamline must beat your old rate plus mortgage insurance by at least half a percentage point. A fixed-rate VA streamline must beat the old rate by at least 50 basis points, which is also half a point. Neither test looks at the lower rate the buydown gives you.
  • The leftover money is not lost. Under Fannie Mae's rules it is credited to your payoff, or returned to you or to a lender that funded it, as the agreement says. FHA forbids sending it back to the seller or builder.
  • Your payment can rise after a good refinance. A new full payment below your old full payment is a real saving. That holds even when it is above the discounted payment you make today.
  • One comparison decides it. When the leftover money comes back to you, the buydown drops out of the math. Compare the new full payment with the old full payment, and divide your closing costs by the monthly saving.

Can you refinance a 2-1 buydown?

Yes. A 2-1 buydown is a side agreement about who pays part of your first two years of payments. It is not a rule about when you may pay the loan off. Fannie Mae's guide says the loan papers must show the permanent payment terms, and that the buydown plan can never change the terms of the note.

So the loan you signed is an ordinary loan at its note rate. You can refinance it on the same schedule as any other loan of its type. The limits you will meet come from the new loan, and each loan program sets its own.

Two things are worth checking on day one. First, look at your note for a prepayment penalty, which is a fee some lenders charge if you pay a loan off early. The Consumer Financial Protection Bureau says not all mortgages have one. When a loan does, it usually applies only in the first three or five years.

Second, find your buydown agreement in your closing papers. It is the document that says where leftover money goes, and the rest of this guide leans on it.

What is a 2-1 buydown, in plain words?

A 2-1 buydown is a temporary discount on your interest rate. In year one you pay as if the rate were two percentage points lower. In year two you pay as if it were one point lower. From year three on you pay the full note rate for the rest of the loan.

The discount is paid for up front. Someone deposits the whole cost into an account at closing. Each month, the account covers the gap between your discounted payment and the full payment. That someone is often a seller or a home builder who wants the sale, and sometimes the lender.

To see what each year of a buydown costs on your own figures, run them through our buydown payment calculator. For the three-year version, our guide to the 3-2-1 buydown, year by year walks through each step.

The limits Fannie Mae sets

Fannie Mae buys a large share of ordinary home loans, so its rules shape most conventional buydowns. Its Selling Guide section B2-1.4-04 allows temporary buydowns on principal residences and second homes, not on investment properties. The discount can be no more than 3 percentage points. The buydown can last no more than 3 years. And the rate you pay can rise by no more than 1 point a year.

A 2-1 buydown fits inside all of those limits. Fannie Mae calls it a moderate buydown, which it defines as a discount of 2 points or less that lasts 2 years or less.

The one idea to hold onto. Your loan has one real rate, the note rate. The buydown is a coupon that covers part of the payment for two years. When you refinance, you are replacing the loan, and the coupon's unused value is handled by the agreement.

What happens to the unused buydown money when you refinance?

It depends on your loan type and on your buydown agreement. Fannie Mae and FHA each set rules for the money still in the account when the loan is paid off, and the table sums them up.

Where leftover buydown money goes when the loan is paid off early. Read your own buydown agreement too, because it names the choice your loan made.
Loan typeWhat the rule saysWhat it means for you
Conventional loan sold to Fannie MaeIf the loan is paid in full, the funds should be credited to the payoff. Or they may go back to the borrower or the lender, as the buydown agreement specifies.Usually the money lowers your payoff. If a lender funded the buydown and the agreement says so, the money can go back to that lender.
FHA loanThe escrow agreement (the contract for the account that holds the buydown money) may not send unused funds back to whoever provided them when the loan is paid off in full. Unused funds may not be paid to the borrower in cash unless the borrower's own money set up the account.A seller or builder cannot take the money back, and you cannot take it as cash unless you funded the account. Ask the servicer, the company that collects your payments, how it is applied on your payoff statement.
Conventional loan sold to Fannie Mae, while the loan is activeFannie Mae's guide says buydown funds are not refundable unless the loan is paid off early. They also cannot be used to pay past-due payments.Stay current on your payments. The account covers the discount, not a missed payment.

So the common case is simple. You refinance, the old loan is paid off, and the unused money lowers the amount needed to pay it off. That means the money is still working for you. It arrives as a smaller payoff instead of as lower payments over the months you skipped.

The one case to watch is a buydown the lender paid for. Fannie Mae lets that agreement send the unused money back to the lender. If yours does, the leftover money is a real cost of refinancing early, and the example below shows how to count it.

What does refinancing eight months in look like?

Here is a full example, done by hand so you can copy it onto your own numbers. It uses dollar amounts only for the buydown account and the monthly saving. It quotes no interest rate, no loan amount and no payment, because those depend on your own loan.

The setup, illustrative only. Assume a 2-1 buydown whose account pays 500 dollars a month toward your payment in year one and 250 dollars a month in year two. Those two figures are assumptions for the arithmetic, not a quote.

What was deposited at closing. Year one is 12 months times 500 dollars, or 6,000 dollars. Year two is 12 months times 250 dollars, or 3,000 dollars. The account started with 9,000 dollars.

What has been used. Rates drop and you refinance after your eighth payment. The account has paid 8 months times 500 dollars, or 4,000 dollars.

What is left. Four year-one months remain, worth 4 times 500, or 2,000 dollars. All twelve year-two months remain, worth 12 times 250, or 3,000 dollars. The leftover is 5,000 dollars. Check it the other way: 9,000 minus 4,000 is also 5,000.

Where it goes. On a Fannie Mae loan whose agreement credits the payoff, the 5,000 dollars comes off what you owe at payoff. On an FHA loan it cannot go back to the seller or builder.

Where a 2-1 buydown stands when you refinance after eight payments A timeline of a 2-1 buydown account. Year one covers 500 dollars a month for 12 months and year two covers 250 dollars a month for 12 months, 9,000 dollars in all. A refinance after the eighth payment has used 4,000 dollars. The remaining 5,000 dollars, four year-one months and twelve year-two months, is credited to the payoff or returned as the buydown agreement says. A 2-1 buydown account, refinanced after payment 8 Payments 1 to 8 used: 8 x 500 = 4,000 9 to 12 4 x 500 left Year two, months 13 to 24 12 x 250 left You refinance here Leftover: 2,000 + 3,000 = 5,000 credited to your payoff or returned, as the agreement says Illustrative figures. The account started with 6,000 for year one plus 3,000 for year two, or 9,000.
Diagram, not a photo. On a phone, swipe the diagram sideways to see all of it. The red blocks are the months the refinance cuts short, and their value is the leftover money.

Why can your payment go up after a good refinance?

Because today you pay a discounted payment, and the new loan has no discount. The honest yardstick is your old full payment, the one you would owe from year three on. That is the payment at the note rate.

Keep going with the example. Assume the new loan's full monthly payment is 200 dollars lower than the old loan's full payment. Here is how that one refinance looks against each stage of the old buydown:

Illustrative only. The new payment is compared with what you would have paid under the old loan in each stage. A plus sign means the new payment is higher.
Stage of the old loanWhat you paid thenThe new payment versus then
Rest of year oneFull payment minus 500 dollarsPlus 300 dollars a month
Year twoFull payment minus 250 dollarsPlus 50 dollars a month
Year three onwardFull paymentMinus 200 dollars a month

The first two rows feel like a step backward. But look at what you give up in those 16 months: 4 months at 500 dollars and 12 months at 250 dollars, which is exactly the 5,000 dollars left in the account. When that money comes back as a payoff credit, you have not lost it.

So the buydown drops out of the math. What is left is the 200 dollar monthly saving against the full payment, for as long as you keep the new loan.

Rates moved and you are inside a buydown? Get the numbers run on your own loan.

Send the date your loan closed, your loan type and your buydown agreement. You get the earliest date your loan type allows a refinance and the note-rate test worked on your own figures. You also get a plain read on where your leftover buydown money goes.

Current as of September 26, 2026.

Get your fast quote

How soon can you refinance after a buydown?

As soon as the new loan's rules allow. The buydown adds no waiting period of its own. The table sets out the loan-age rules for the common refinance types, each read from the program's own rulebook.

Loan-age rules for common refinances. Individual lenders can add their own waiting periods on top, so treat these as the earliest dates, not a promise.
Refinance typeLoan-age ruleWhere the rule lives
Conventional rate-and-term (Fannie Mae calls it limited cash-out)No minimum age for the loan being paid off is listed. Cash back is capped at the greater of 1 percent of the new loan or 2,000 dollars.Fannie Mae Selling Guide B2-1.3-02
Conventional cash-outThe first mortgage being paid off must be at least 12 months old, note date to note date.Fannie Mae Selling Guide B2-1.3-03
FHA streamlineChecked on the day the FHA case number is assigned. You need six payments made and six full months since the first payment due date. It must also be at least 210 days since closing.HUD Handbook 4000.1
FHA cash-outYou must have owned and lived in the home as your main residence for the 12 months before the case number is assigned.HUD Handbook 4000.1
VA streamline (IRRRL)The later of six consecutive monthly payments made, or 210 days after the first payment due date.38 U.S.C. 3709(c)

A few terms from that table, in plain words. A rate-and-term refinance replaces your loan to change the rate or the length, with little or no cash back. A cash-out refinance takes a bigger loan and hands you the difference. A streamline is a refinance of an FHA or VA loan into the same kind of loan, with less paperwork. The VA version is called an IRRRL, short for Interest Rate Reduction Refinancing Loan.

The dates, worked on one loan

Say your loan closed on March 16, 2026, and your first payment was due May 1, 2026. You make every payment on time. Here is when each clock runs out.

  • FHA streamline. The 210th day after closing is October 12, 2026. Six full months after the first due date is November 1, 2026. Your sixth payment is the one due October 1. The latest of the three wins, so the case number can be assigned no earlier than November 1, 2026.
  • VA streamline. Six consecutive payments are done with the October 1 payment. The 210th day after the May 1 first due date is November 27, 2026. The later date controls, so November 27, 2026 is the first day the new loan can be guaranteed.
  • Conventional cash-out. Twelve months note date to note date puts it at March 16, 2027. As the next section shows, a cash-out refinance cannot carry a new buydown under Fannie Mae's rules.

Every one of those dates falls inside year one of the buydown. So yes, you can refinance while the discount is still running.

Which rate do the refinance tests use: the note rate or the bought-down rate?

The note rate. Both FHA and VA streamlines must show that you come out ahead, and both measure that against the rate on the loan itself. A buydown never changes the note, so the discount you pay today is not the number you have to beat.

The FHA streamline test

HUD calls this the net tangible benefit, meaning a real, measurable gain for you. For a fixed-rate loan refinanced into a fixed-rate loan, without cutting the term by three years or more, the new combined rate must be at least 0.5 percentage point below the old one. HUD defines the combined rate as the interest rate on the mortgage plus the annual mortgage insurance premium rate. That premium, called MIP, is the insurance charge built into FHA loans.

The VA streamline test

Federal law, 38 U.S.C. 3709(b), requires a fixed-to-fixed VA refinance to carry a rate at least 50 basis points lower than the previous loan. A basis point is one hundredth of a percentage point, so 50 of them is half a point. The same section requires the fees and closing costs to be scheduled to pay back through lower monthly payments within 36 months.

What that means in practice

Say your year-one payment is figured two points below your note rate. A new rate that is half a point below the note rate can pass either test. That is true even though it sits one and a half points above the discounted rate you pay today.

So you do not need a new rate below your bought-down rate to qualify. You need one far enough below the note rate to pass the test and to save you money once closing costs are counted.

FHA to FHA inside three years. If you refinance one FHA loan into another within three years, HUD credits back part of the upfront mortgage insurance premium you paid. The credit starts at 80 percent in the first month and slides down to 10 percent by the 36th month, following the schedule in HUD Handbook 4000.1. Ask for the exact credit on your own loan before you compare offers.

Can the new loan have its own buydown?

It depends on the loan type. This is the part most refinance advice skips, and the rules differ sharply.

  • Conventional rate-and-term. Yes, within limits. Fannie Mae allows temporary buydowns on principal residences and second homes, and it lists only cash-out refinances as ineligible. So a rate-and-term refinance can carry a new buydown if someone funds it.
  • Conventional cash-out. No. Fannie Mae lists cash-out refinance transactions as ineligible for a temporary buydown.
  • FHA refinance. No. HUD Handbook 4000.1 states that temporary interest rate buydowns are not permitted with refinance transactions.

There is also the permanent kind of rate reduction. Paying discount points buys the rate down for the whole life of the loan, not just two years. Our guide on whether paying points to lower your rate pays off shows how to find the break-even month. On a VA streamline, federal law limits how a lower rate may be produced by points, so ask about that before you pay any.

Should you refinance now or wait for year three?

Use one rule. Refinance when the saving against your old full payment repays your closing costs well before you expect to move or refinance again. Count the leftover buydown money as yours when the agreement credits it to you, and as a cost when it goes back to a lender.

A man and a woman at a kitchen table in a Las Vegas home, reviewing a loan statement and a laptop together
An illustrative image created for this article, not real clients. The papers worth pulling out before you refinance are the note, the buydown agreement and a payoff statement.

The break-even math, illustrative only. Assume the refinance costs 6,000 dollars in closing costs, and the new full payment is 200 dollars lower than the old full payment.

When the leftover comes back to you. Divide 6,000 by 200 and you get 30 months to break even. After month 30, the 200 dollars a month is money ahead.

When the leftover goes back to a lender. Now the 5,000 dollars from the example is a cost too. Add it: 6,000 plus 5,000 is 11,000. Divide 11,000 by 200 and the break-even stretches to 55 months.

The rule of thumb. If you plan to keep the home and the new loan longer than the break-even month, the refinance pays. If not, waiting for year three costs you nothing, because the buydown keeps covering part of your payment until then.

Waiting has one more thing going for it. Every month the old buydown pays is a month you are not paying closing costs twice. If rates may fall further, a short wait inside the buydown period is cheap.

For a wider look at timing, our guide to refinancing in Las Vegas compares the main refinance paths side by side. Once you decide, a rate lock is a promise to hold your rate for a set time, so ask how long the lock runs.

Buying a new home with a builder buydown?

Builder incentives are one common source of buydown money, and the refinance question tends to come up once rates move. If you are still shopping, it helps to know how builders structure a rate buydown on a new Las Vegas home before you sign. Before you accept one, work out what the builder's buydown is worth each year and set it beside a price cut of the same dollars.

What should you do before you apply to refinance?

  1. Find your buydown agreement. It is in your closing papers. Look for the line that says what happens to unused funds if the loan is paid off early.
  2. Check your note for a prepayment penalty. If there is one, note how long it lasts and how it is figured.
  3. Ask your servicer for a payoff statement. Ask them to show how the unused buydown balance will be applied, as a credit to the payoff or a refund.
  4. Find your earliest date. Use the table above for your loan type: the 210-day and six-payment clocks for FHA and VA streamlines, plus six full months since the first payment due date for FHA, and 12 months for a conventional cash-out.
  5. Run the note-rate test. Compare any new offer with your note rate, not your discounted rate. For FHA, add the annual MIP rate to both sides first.
  6. Do the break-even division. Divide closing costs, plus any leftover money that goes back to a lender, by the monthly saving against your full payment.

Start by putting your own buydown numbers in the calculator. Then these six steps turn it into a yes or no for your own loan.

Refinancing a buydown: FAQ

Timing and rules

Can you refinance a 2-1 buydown?

Yes. A 2-1 buydown is a side agreement that covers part of your payment for two years, and it never changes the terms of your note. You can refinance whenever the new loan's rules allow. The buydown adds no waiting period of its own.

How soon can you refinance after a 2-1 buydown?

It depends on the new loan. Fannie Mae lists no minimum loan age for a conventional rate-and-term refinance, and requires 12 months for a cash-out. An FHA streamline needs six payments, six full months since the first payment due date and 210 days since closing. A VA streamline needs six consecutive payments and 210 days after the first payment due date, whichever is later.

Do refinance tests use my note rate or my bought-down rate?

Your note rate. An FHA streamline must lower the combined rate, which is the note rate plus the annual mortgage insurance rate, by at least 0.5 percentage point. A VA streamline must lower the rate by at least 50 basis points. Neither test looks at the discounted rate the buydown gives you.

The leftover money

What happens to the leftover buydown money if I refinance?

On a loan sold to Fannie Mae, it is credited to your payoff, or returned to you or to a lender that funded it, as your buydown agreement says. On an FHA loan it cannot go back to the seller or builder. It also cannot be paid to you in cash unless your own money set up the account.

Do I lose money if I refinance during a buydown?

Usually not. When the unused money is credited to your payoff, you get the same money as a smaller payoff instead of as lower payments. The exception is a lender-funded buydown whose agreement sends the leftover back to the lender. In that case, count the leftover as a cost of refinancing early.

The new loan

Can the refinance loan have a new buydown?

On a conventional rate-and-term refinance, Fannie Mae allows it for principal residences and second homes. Fannie Mae does not allow a temporary buydown on a cash-out refinance, and HUD does not allow one on any FHA refinance.

Why would my payment go up after refinancing a buydown?

Because you are paying a discounted payment today and the new loan has no discount. Compare the new payment with your old full payment at the note rate. If the new one is lower, the refinance saves money once the buydown would have ended, and the leftover money makes up the gap until then.

Article history

  • September 26, 2026. First published. Fannie Mae Selling Guide sections B2-1.4-04 (dated August 7, 2024), B2-1.3-02 (October 8, 2025) and B2-1.3-03 (December 10, 2025) were read live that day, each date taken from the section's own heading.

    HUD Handbook 4000.1 was read in the edition whose pages carry a Last Revised date of August 12, 2026. The VA refinance rules were read in 38 U.S.C. 3709 on the House of Representatives' U.S. Code site, and the prepayment penalty explainer on the CFPB's site.

    Every dollar figure and every date on the page was worked by hand: the 9,000, 4,000 and 5,000 dollar account figures, the 30 and 55 month break-even results, and the five refinance dates.

  • Next scheduled review: December 1, 2026. HUD's current handbook edition carries changes that must be in place by November 10, 2026, so the FHA rows are checked again after that date.

About the reviewer

VS
Reviewed by
Vatche Saatdjian
President, Valley West Mortgage · NMLS #69363 (Valley West Mortgage, NMLS #65506)

Vatche Saatdjian is president of Valley West Mortgage, an independent mortgage lender based in Las Vegas and holding NMLS #65506. Check current company authorization in Nevada through NMLS Consumer Access. Every figure in this article was checked against the primary sources listed below.

Find out whether refinancing your buydown makes sense this year

One conversation gets you three things. First, the earliest date your loan type allows a refinance. Second, the note-rate test worked on your own loan. Third, the break-even month, with your leftover buydown money counted the right way.

Start your fast quote

Across Valley West: Using a VA loan? Our VA site covers how a 2-1 buydown works on a VA purchase. It also explains VA's concession limit, which is the cap on what a seller may pay.

Keep reading

Sources: Fannie Mae Selling Guide

Sources: HUD, VA and the CFPB

Verification note

Last updated: September 26, 2026. Every source listed above was read live on September 26, 2026. Every dollar figure and date was recomputed by hand.

What this page refuses to do

It quotes no interest rate, no annual percentage rate, no loan amount, no loan term and no monthly payment. The buydown account figures, the monthly saving and the closing costs in the examples are assumptions chosen for the arithmetic, not quotes. Every dollar figure on the page is illustrative.

It names no lender other than our own. It is not legal or tax advice about your own loan documents. Your note and your buydown agreement control.

This article is for general information and is not legal, tax or financial advice. Valley West Mortgage is an independent mortgage lender, NMLS #65506, licensed in Nevada. Equal Housing Opportunity. Valley West Mortgage is not affiliated with, or acting on behalf of or at the direction of, HUD, the FHA, the VA or any other government agency. Nothing on this page is an offer of credit, a rate quote, a preapproval or a commitment to lend, and loan terms vary by borrower, property and program. All figures are illustrative and not a quote, offer, or commitment to lend.

Talk to a Valley West specialist

Valley West Mortgage, NMLS #65506. Equal Housing Opportunity. Submitting this form is not an application and is not a commitment to lend.

Mortgage Rate Lock: When to Lock, How Long, and Float-Downs (2026)

Rates

Mortgage rate locks: timing, costs and questions before closing

Published July 19, 2026 · 9 min read

Valley West Mortgage is an independent mortgage lender, NMLS #65506, and is not affiliated with or endorsed by the Federal Housing Administration (FHA), HUD, or the U.S. Department of Veterans Affairs. This article is editorial guidance; every rate and payment shown is an illustrative example — not a quote, offer, or commitment to lend.

Quick answer: If the payment at today's rate works for your budget and you're inside your closing window — lock.

A mortgage rate lock freezes your interest rate and points for a set lock period, typically 30, 45, or 60 days, so market moves can't touch your deal while it closes.

Floating is a bet with your housing payment; a lock is the payment you already said yes to.

"Should I lock now or wait?" is the one mortgage question everyone asks and nobody can answer with a forecast. So don't answer it with a forecast.

Answer it with the same test we give Las Vegas borrowers every week: does the payment work, and does the lock cover your closing date?

Here's the full playbook — what a mortgage rate lock actually covers, what 30- to 90-day lock periods cost.

It also covers when a float-down is worth paying for, what really happens when a lock expires, and the exact dollars-and-cents cost of floating into a higher rate.

Key takeaways

  • A lock freezes your rate and points combination — not just the rate — for a set lock period. Per the CFPB, locks typically run 30, 45, or 60 days, and sometimes longer.
  • Longer locks cost more. The Federal Reserve's consumer guide notes locks from 7 days up to 120, and the fee usually grows with the lock period — quoted as basis points of the loan amount or a slightly different rate.
  • Floating has a real price tag. Illustrative: on a $400,000 30-year loan, floating from 6.5% into 6.75% costs about $66/month — roughly $23,803 more interest over the term.
  • A float-down buys back the upside — one chance to grab a lower rate if the market improves past a trigger — but you pay for the option, and terms vary widely by lender.

What is a mortgage rate lock — and what does it actually cover?

A mortgage rate lock (the CFPB calls it a "lock-in") is your lender's commitment that your interest rate won't change between the offer and closing. That commitment holds as long as you close within the specified time frame and there are no changes to your application. Two details in that sentence do all the work:

“A lock-in or rate lock on a mortgage loan means that your interest rate won't change between the offer and closing, as long as you close within the specified time frame and there are no changes to your application.”Consumer Financial Protection Bureau “What's a lock-in or a rate lock on a mortgage?” — consumerfinance.gov

Specifically, it locks the rate-and-points combination, not just the rate. Every rate quote is really a pair: an interest rate plus the discount points (or lender credit) attached to it. In short, a lock freezes that pair. Lender pricing moves daily — sometimes hourly — and without a lock, both halves of your quote float with it.

It only holds if your file holds. A lock protects you from the market, not from your own application. Change the loan amount, the program, the property type, your documented income, or have the appraisal come in short, and the lender can re-price the locked deal. That's not fine print malice; the lock was priced for the file you presented.

Your paper trail

Your paper trail matters here.

The Loan Estimate — which the CFPB requires lenders to deliver within three business days of your application.

It states whether or not your rate is locked.

What it does not show, as the CFPB points out, is what an extension would cost or what you're paying for your specific lock period.

Therefore, ask both questions before you sign, and get the lock terms in writing.

Indeed, the Federal Reserve's consumer guide has been giving that exact advice since the pamphlet era, because disputes over verbal lock promises are as old as lock desks.

How long should you lock — and what do longer lock periods cost?

Per the CFPB, rate locks are typically available for 30, 45, or 60 days, and sometimes longer.

The Federal Reserve's consumer guide sketches the fuller menu: some lenders offer short locks of about 7 days after approval, and some go up to 120 days.

However, one rule is consistent across all of them: the longer the lock period, the more it costs.

The cost shows up either as an explicit fee (flat, or a percentage of the loan amount) or baked into slightly wider pricing — a few basis points at a time.

For scale: 25 basis points of price on a $400,000 loan is $1,000 — every figure here is illustrative, and every lender prices lock periods differently.

Lock periods compared. Cost relationships are illustrative — lenders price lock periods differently; your Loan Estimate and written rate-lock agreement control.
Lock periodBuilt forCost relationship (illustrative)
15–30 daysRefinances and purchases already deep in underwriting, with a clear closing dateThe baseline — shortest standard locks carry the tightest pricing
45 daysThe typical purchase timeline: offer accepted, appraisal and underwriting still aheadA step wider than 30-day — think a modest number of basis points of the loan amount
60 daysSlower files: complex income, busy appraisal markets, seller timing issuesWider again — the fee curve keeps climbing with each tier
90–120+ days / extendedNew construction and long escrowsPriced widest; often an upfront lock deposit, sometimes with a float-down built in near closing

Matching the period to your closing timeline

The right lock period isn't the cheapest one — it's the one that covers your realistic closing date with a cushion.

A 30-day lock on a 40-day escrow isn't a bargain; it's a scheduled extension fee.

Ask your loan officer how long files like yours are actually taking to close — appraisal turn times and underwriting queues vary through the year — and lock past that, not up to it.

Should you lock now or float?

Floating means leaving your rate unlocked and hoping pricing improves before you must lock. Here's the honest frame: when you float, you're not "waiting for information" — you're making a leveraged bet on rate direction with your housing payment as the stake. And the stake is bigger than it looks:

Worked example — the cost of floating — illustrative rates, P&I only

You're borrowing $400,000 on a 30-year fixed. Today you could lock at 6.5%. You float instead, and by the time you have to lock, pricing has moved to 6.75%:

Locked: $400,000 at 6.500% → $2,528/mo principal & interest ($2,528.27)

Floated: $400,000 at 6.750% → $2,594/mo principal & interest ($2,594.39)

The quarter point costs: $66 every month ($66.12) — for 360 months

Total: about $23,803 more interest over the full term (exact payment math, $66.12 × 360)

Of course, the float could just as easily have gone your way — that's what makes it a bet. The rates here are illustrative, not an offer or a quote; your pricing comes from your own Loan Estimate.

A test that beats forecasting

So use a test that doesn't require predicting the future:

Above all, lock when the payment works. If the principal-and-interest payment at today's rate fits the budget you built (our how-much-house-can-you-afford guide shows the 28/36 math), and your lock period covers your closing date, lock. You can't lose the deal you already liked — and if rates truly collapse after closing, refinancing is the float-down you can always exercise later.

Float only with cushion and a stomach for it. Floating is defensible when the payment works even at a meaningfully higher rate, you're weeks away from needing the lock anyway, and you'd genuinely shrug at a quarter-point move against you. If a 0.25% rise would break your budget or your nerve, you have no business floating — lock and go live your life.

Want a lock strategy instead of a guess?

Ten minutes with a Las Vegas loan officer: your closing timeline, real pricing across our full program range, lock periods and float-down options side by side. If the smart answer is a longer lock or a later lock, we'll say so. No obligation.

Get your fast quote

What is a float-down — and when is it worth paying for?

A float-down option bolts onto a rate lock and fixes the lock's one emotional flaw: the fear that rates drop the day after you commit. With a float-down, if market pricing improves while you're locked, you get one chance to reset your locked rate to the better market — while keeping full protection if rates rise instead. Heads you win, tails you're covered.

What float-downs cost

Of course, options like that are never free. The typical structure — and all of this varies significantly by lender, so treat it as a map, not a menu:

The cost, the trigger, the mechanics

The cost. You pay for a float-down either as an upfront fee, as slightly wider pricing on the locked rate itself (a few basis points, the mirror image of buying points), or both. Some lenders only attach float-downs to longer locks or specific programs.

The trigger. Specifically, most float-down provisions require the market to improve by a minimum amount from your locked rate — commonly somewhere around a quarter point, illustratively — before you can exercise. A drift of a few basis points doesn't qualify; the option exists for real moves.

The mechanics. Usually exercisable once, usually at the lender's current pricing for your remaining lock period, and usually before a cutoff — often a set number of days before closing. Miss the window and the option quietly expires.

When it's worth it: long locks, jumpy markets, and thin budgets.

On a 90-day new-construction lock, a float-down is close to standard equipment — a lot can happen in 90 days, and the option's price is small next to the lock deposit.

On a 30-day lock in a quiet market, you're often paying real money for a trigger that's unlikely to be hit; putting the same dollars toward discount points — a rate reduction you get with certainty — frequently beats an option you may never use.

Price both and compare.

What happens if your rate lock expires before closing?

Closings slip. Appraisal backlogs, underwriting conditions, seller delays, a title surprise — none of them care about your lock's expiration date. When the calendar wins, events unfold in a fixed order:

First, the extension. Before a lock dies, your lender will typically offer to extend it for a fee.

For example, it is commonly quoted as a fraction of a point of the loan amount per block of extra time (a week, ten days, fifteen days), and the price varies by lender.

Illustratively: a 15-day extension at 0.25% of a $400,000 loan is a $1,000 one-time charge.

Compare that to the alternative from the worked example above — relocking a quarter point higher costs $66 a month for 360 months.

As a result, paying a reasonable extension fee almost always beats losing the lock.

Extensions and who pays

Who pays depends on whose delay it is. If the file sat in the lender's underwriting queue, ask the lender to cover the extension.

Many will when the delay is theirs.

Moreover, lenders say yes to that more often than borrowers think when the delay is clearly theirs.

If the delay is on your side or the transaction's (documents delivered late, seller pushed the closing date), expect to pay.

Worst case: the lock fully expires. The Federal Reserve's consumer guide is plain about what happens next: most lenders will offer the loan at prevailing market pricing — meaning if rates rose while you were locked, you pay the higher market.

And a common industry wrinkle makes it worse: many relock policies charge the worse of your original pricing and the current market, precisely so borrowers can't let locks lapse to chase lower rates.

An expired lock has no upside — manage the calendar so you never find out.

Does rate shopping hurt your credit score?

Locking a great quote starts with having several quotes.

However, this is the part of rate shopping people needlessly fear.

Every formal mortgage application generates a hard credit inquiry, and hard inquiries can nick a credit score.

But FICO's published guidance addresses mortgage shopping directly: its scores group multiple mortgage hard inquiries made within a short shopping window into a single inquiry.

The window is 14 to 45 days depending on the score version a lender uses — older FICO formulas use a 14-day span, the newest use 45.

Because you don't control which version gets pulled, the conservative play is simple: get all your quotes inside a tight two-week window, and the whole expedition counts as one inquiry under any version.

One window, one inquiry

Moreover, shopping inside one window has a second, quieter benefit: your quotes are comparable.

Rate-and-points offers gathered three weeks apart reflect three-weeks-different markets — the spread between lenders gets buried in the drift between Tuesdays.

Same week, same day if you can.

That's how we quote files as a lender: the same file, priced across our full program range at the same moment, so the comparison means something before anything gets locked.

For Southern Nevada shoppers, our conventional site follows how conventional rates are trending in Las Vegas — useful context while you build that window.

New construction: the extended lock

In contrast, standard locks assume a closing date measured in weeks.

A house that doesn't exist yet closes in months — and builder delays are common enough that the Federal Reserve's consumer guide specifically flags "unanticipated construction delays" as a reason locks die.

Lenders bridge the gap with extended lock programs for new construction: lock periods of roughly 6 to 12 months, typically with three moving parts —

How extended locks are priced

An upfront lock deposit (illustratively a fraction of a point to a point of the loan amount, varying by lender and length), often credited back at closing if you close with that lender. Wider pricing than a standard 30- or 45-day lock — you're buying months of protection, and months cost more than weeks.

And, very often, a built-in float-down exercisable near closing, because no builder-buyer wants to watch the market fall for eight months while stapled to a February rate.

If your builder's timeline stretches past 60 days, ask for the extended-lock sheet and read the float-down terms before the deposit — the details (trigger, cutoff, one-time use) do all the work.

Valley West takeWe don't predict rates, and we're suspicious of anyone who does. What we actually do at lock time: price the same file across our full program range the same morning, match the lock period to the file's real closing timeline plus cushion. Finally, we price the float-down against just buying the rate down with the same dollars. That's the independent lender advantage in one sentence — options priced against each other, not one bank's rate sheet taken on faith. And when a client calls mid-escrow asking "should we have floated?", our favorite answer is the boring one: the payment worked the day you locked it, and it still works today.

Ready to lock a rate that fits your budget?

Bring your timeline; we'll bring same-morning pricing across our full program range, the right lock period for your closing date, and the float-down math in plain English. You'll leave knowing your number — locked or not. No obligation.

Get your fast quote

Mortgage rate lock FAQ

Should I lock my mortgage rate today or wait?

If the payment at today's rate fits your budget and you're inside your closing window, lock. Floating is a bet: illustratively, on a $400,000 30-year loan, floating from 6.5% into 6.75% costs about $66 more per month — roughly $23,803 more interest over the term. Nobody reliably predicts rates; take the payment that works.

How long can you lock a mortgage rate?

Typically 30, 45, or 60 days per the CFPB, sometimes longer — the Federal Reserve's guide notes everything from 7-day post-approval locks to 120 days. Similarly, new-construction extended locks commonly run 6 to 12 months, varying by lender. Longer locks cost more, so cover your realistic closing date plus a cushion.

What happens if my rate lock expires before closing?

First, expect a paid extension offer — often a fraction of a point per week or two of added time, varying by lender. If the lock fully expires, most lenders re-offer at prevailing market pricing, and many relock policies charge the worse of your original and current pricing. If the delay was the lender's, ask them to cover the extension.

Cost and extension questions

How much does a float-down cost?

It varies by lender: an upfront fee, slightly wider pricing on the locked rate (a few basis points), or both. Most float-downs also require a minimum market improvement — commonly around a quarter point, illustratively — before you can exercise, once, before a cutoff date. Price it against simply buying discount points.

Does shopping multiple lenders hurt my credit score?

Not meaningfully if you shop inside a focused window. FICO's published guidance groups mortgage hard inquiries made within a 14-to-45-day shopping window (depending on score version) into a single inquiry. Keep all your quotes inside about two weeks and rate shopping is a one-inquiry event under any version.

Can my locked rate still change before closing?

Yes — a lock protects you from the market, not from application changes. Per the CFPB, the rate holds only if you close within the time frame and nothing material changes: loan amount, program, documented income, credit profile, property type, or appraised value. Lock what's real, then keep the file steady.

What should your written rate-lock confirmation tell you?

Ask for the locked rate, any points or lender credits, the expiration date and the loan terms the lock assumes. Points are an upfront charge tied to the rate. Confirm who to contact if the closing date moves and what an extension would cost under your agreement.

Keep the confirmation with your Loan Estimate, the standard form showing proposed loan terms and costs. If the loan amount, property use or other application details change, ask whether the lock still applies. A lock does not mean the loan has final approval.

The bottom line

A mortgage rate lock is the cheapest certainty in the whole transaction: it freezes your rate-and-points deal for a lock period you choose.

Moreover, its price is small next to what a quarter-point float against you costs — about $66 a month on a $400,000 loan, illustratively, for the next thirty years.

Lock when the payment works and the period covers your closing date with cushion.

Float only with real budget slack and no illusions about forecasting.

Pay for a float-down when the lock is long or the market is jumpy.

Similarly, pay the extension fee rather than lose a lock.

Finally, do all your shopping inside one tight window so your credit score barely notices.

Bring us your timeline — we'll price the lock across our full program range and hand you a decision, not a prediction.

Reviewed by
Vatche Saatdjian
President, Valley West Mortgage · NMLS #65506

Las Vegas mortgage expert since 2004 · Equal Housing Opportunity. Valley West Mortgage is an independent mortgage lender with state licenses listed in NMLS Consumer Access and offices at 8010 W Sahara Ave Ste 140, Las Vegas, NV. Find a loan officer →

Sources

  1. Federal Reserve Board — A Consumer's Guide to Mortgage Lock-Ins (lock-ins of 30 to 60 days common, short 7-day and up-to-120-day locks; longer lock periods carry greater fees; expired locks re-offered at prevailing rates): federalreserve.gov
  2. Consumer Financial Protection Bureau — What's a lock-in or a rate lock on a mortgage? (definition; locks typically 30, 45, or 60 days; extensions can be expensive; the Loan Estimate states whether your rate is locked): consumerfinance.gov
  3. Consumer Financial Protection Bureau — What is a Loan Estimate? (delivered within three business days of application; shows estimated rate, payment, and closing costs): consumerfinance.gov
  4. myFICO — Credit Checks: What are credit inquiries and how do they affect your FICO Score? (mortgage inquiries within a 14-to-45-day shopping window, by score version, count as a single inquiry): myfico.com

Updated September 16, 2026: added a practical document and decision checklist. Earlier source-review dates remain historical.

Talk to a Valley West specialist

Valley West Mortgage, NMLS #65506. Equal Housing Opportunity. Submitting this form is not an application and is not a commitment to lend.

Mortgage Discount Points: When Buying Down Your Rate Actually Pays Off

Payment Strategy

Mortgage discount points: when buying down your rate actually pays off

Updated July 18, 2026 · Originally published December 2014 · 6 min read

Valley West Mortgage is an independent mortgage lender, NMLS #65506. This article is editorial guidance, not tax advice; figures shown are illustrative examples — not a quote, offer, or commitment to lend.

Quick answer: Mortgage discount points are prepaid interest: one point costs 1% of the loan amount and permanently lowers your rate (commonly ~0.125–0.25% per point, per your Loan Estimate). They pay off only if you keep the loan past the break-even month — the cost divided by the monthly savings. Sell or refinance before then, and the money was spent for nothing.

Points are the most oversold product in mortgage lending — and occasionally the smartest money you'll spend. The difference is one division problem. Here's the break-even math, when points beat a temporary buydown or a bigger down payment, and the reverse trade (lender credits) nobody mentions. If you are pricing a purchase in Southern Nevada, our overview of Las Vegas conventional loan options is a useful companion to this math.

Key takeaways

  • One point = 1% of the loan, paid at closing, for a permanent rate cut — the exact trade prints on your Loan Estimate and varies by market.
  • The only question that matters: break-even month = points cost ÷ monthly savings. Keep the loan longer than that, points win; exit earlier, they lose.
  • Long holders lean points; short holders lean a temporary buydown (deeper early relief, seller-funded, unused escrow refunded).
  • Lender credits are the same trade reversed — a higher rate in exchange for lower cash to close. Powerful when cash is the constraint.

What are mortgage discount points?

Discount points are interest you prepay at closing in exchange for a permanently lower rate. One point costs 1% of the loan amount. The rate reduction per point floats with the market — commonly in the 0.125–0.25% range — and it's rarely linear: the first point usually buys more reduction than the third. Don't confuse discount points with the origination charges some lenders also quote in "points"; your Loan Estimate separates them.

How do you know if points pay off? The break-even math

Worked example — illustrative only

$400,000 loan, 30-year fixed. One point ($4,000) lowers the rate from 6.5% to 6.25%.

P&I at 6.5%: $2,528/mo • at 6.25%: $2,463/mo → saves $65/mo

Break-even: $4,000 ÷ $65 ≈ 62 months (~5 years)

Keep the loan past year five and the point keeps paying you back every month for decades. Refinance in year three and you left roughly $1,600 on the table. Your actual pricing comes from your Loan Estimate on lock day.

Valley West takeAsk yourself one honest question before buying points: "Do I actually believe I'll hold this loan five-plus years?" In a falling-rate environment most borrowers refinance sooner than they think, which quietly erases the points math. Our rule of thumb: buy points when you're confident in a long hold at a rate you're happy with; skip them when refinancing is realistically on your horizon — and never buy points with money that would otherwise be your emergency reserves. The reserves are worth more to your approval and your life.

Points vs. temporary buydown vs. bigger down payment

Three uses for the same closing-table dollars — structural comparison. Run your real numbers with a loan officer.
Discount pointsTemporary buydownBigger down payment
EffectPermanent rate cutDeep payment relief, years 1–3 onlySmaller loan, less interest forever
Usually paid byBuyerSeller or builder creditBuyer
If you refinance earlyMoney spentUnused escrow refundedEquity kept
Best forConfident long holdersShort horizon, payment-tight yearsRisk-averse; may drop PMI sooner

What are lender credits? The reverse trade

Lender credits (sometimes called negative points) flip the transaction: you accept a modestly higher rate and the lender pays part of your closing costs. When cash to close is the binding constraint — common for first-time buyers — a credit can make the purchase possible now, and if rates fall later, the refinance costs you a rate you never intended to keep anyway. The same break-even logic applies in reverse: the shorter your expected hold, the better credits look.

See your points math on real pricing.

We'll price your loan at zero points, one point, and with a lender credit — same day, side by side — so the break-even is a fact, not a guess. Las Vegas based; check current state licenses in NMLS Consumer Access.

Get your fast quote

Discount points FAQ

What are mortgage discount points?

Prepaid interest: one point costs 1% of the loan and permanently lowers your rate, typically ~0.125–0.25% per point depending on market pricing. The exact trade is on your Loan Estimate.

Are discount points worth it?

Only past break-even (cost ÷ monthly savings). Hold longer, they win; refinance or sell sooner, they lose. In the example above break-even is about five years.

How much does one point lower the rate?

Market-dependent and rarely linear — commonly 0.125–0.25% per point, with the first point buying the most. Lock-day pricing decides.

Are points tax deductible?

Points are prepaid interest and can be deductible on a purchase under IRS rules — confirm with your tax professional.

Points or a temporary buydown?

Long hold at a rate you like: points. Short horizon or payment-tight early years with a seller credit available: buydown — unused escrow comes back if you exit.

The bottom line

Points are neither a scam nor a free lunch — they're a bet on how long you'll keep the loan. Do the division, be honest about your horizon, and remember the same dollars have three other jobs available: buydown escrow, bigger down payment, or reserves. The right answer falls out of your timeline, not the sales pitch.

If a seller is paying for a temporary buydown instead of points, the FHA version has its own rules. Our guide to how a seller-paid 2-1 buydown works on an FHA loan covers the note-rate qualifying rule and the 6 percent seller limit it shares with points.

Reviewed by
Vatche Saatdjian
President, Valley West Mortgage · NMLS #65506

Las Vegas mortgage expert since 2004 · Equal Housing Opportunity. Valley West Mortgage is an independent mortgage lender with current state authorization listed in NMLS Consumer Access, with offices at 8010 W Sahara Ave Ste 140, Las Vegas, NV. Find a loan officer →

Sources

  1. CFPB — What are discount points and lender credits and how do they work: consumerfinance.gov
  2. IRS — Topic 504, Home mortgage points: irs.gov

Last updated: July 18, 2026 — fully rewritten from the 2014 original; break-even math verified ($400k example), three-way comparison and lender-credit section added.

Mortgage Rate Buydowns in 2026: How 3-2-1 and 2-1 Buydowns Work

Payment Strategy

Mortgage rate buydowns in 2026: how 3-2-1 and 2-1 buydowns work

Updated July 17, 2026 · Originally published November 2022 · 7 min read

Valley West Mortgage is an independent mortgage lender, NMLS #65506. This article is editorial guidance; figures shown are illustrative examples — not a quote, offer, or commitment to lend.

Quick answer: A mortgage rate buydown temporarily lowers the effective rate on your mortgage for the first 1–3 years — a 3-2-1 buydown is 3 points lower in year one, 2 in year two, 1 in year three — with the difference paid from an escrow account funded at closing, usually by the seller or builder. You qualify at the full note rate, and unused funds are credited back if you refinance or sell.

When rates are high, a buydown is one of the few tools that lowers your payment without permanently paying for it. Here is how temporary buydowns actually work, the corrected math on a real example, who pays, and when a buydown beats a price reduction.

Key takeaways

  • A temporary buydown reduces your effective rate for the first 1–3 years: 3-2-1 (three years), 2-1 (two years), or 1-0 (one year).
  • The reduction is funded from a buydown escrow account at closing — typically a seller or builder credit, not your cash.
  • You qualify at the full note rate, so a buydown eases early payments but doesn't stretch your approval.
  • If you refinance or sell during the buydown period, remaining escrow funds are generally credited toward your payoff — the money isn't lost.

What is a mortgage rate buydown?

A mortgage rate buydown is a financing arrangement that lowers the effective interest rate on your loan for the first one to three years. Your actual note rate never changes — instead, an escrow account funded at closing pays the difference between your reduced payment and the full payment each month. When the buydown period ends, you simply start paying the full note-rate payment you qualified for on day one.

Buydowns surged back into use when rates jumped, because they let sellers and builders solve a buyer's payment problem without cutting the price. They remain a standard offer on new-construction deals in Las Vegas in 2026. If you are comparing a builder’s buydown against simply taking the market as it is, our conventional loan site tracks the current conventional rate picture in Las Vegas.

3-2-1 vs. 2-1 vs. 1-0: the three common structures

Temporary buydown structures. Effective-rate reductions apply to the payment only; the note rate and your qualification are unchanged. Illustrative — not a quote, offer, or commitment to lend.
StructureYear 1Year 2Year 3Year 4+
3-2-1 buydownNote rate − 3%Note rate − 2%Note rate − 1%Full note rate
2-1 buydownNote rate − 2%Note rate − 1%Full note rateFull note rate
1-0 buydownNote rate − 1%Full note rateFull note rateFull note rate

The deeper the buydown, the more the escrow account costs to fund — which is why 2-1 buydowns are the most commonly negotiated: meaningful year-one relief at roughly half the cost of a 3-2-1.

The real math: a $350,000 loan at 6% with a 3-2-1 buydown

Worked example — illustrative only

30-year fixed, $350,000 loan, 6% note rate. Full principal & interest payment: $2,098/month.

Year 1 at 3%: $1,476/mo — escrow pays $622/mo

Year 2 at 4%: $1,671/mo — escrow pays $427/mo

Year 3 at 5%: $1,879/mo — escrow pays $219/mo

Total buydown cost (escrow funded at closing): ≈ $15,238

Years 4–30: the full $2,098 principal & interest payment. Taxes and insurance are separate. Run your own numbers in our 3-2-1 buydown calculator.

Valley West takeA buydown is a payment tool, not a discount — the honest comparison is what else that seller credit could buy. On the example above, $15,238 could instead permanently buy the rate down a fraction of a point, or come off the price. If you expect to refinance within 2–3 years, the temporary buydown usually wins: you get the deepest payment relief exactly when you need it, and any unused escrow is normally credited toward your payoff. If you plan to hold the loan for a decade, run the permanent-points comparison first.

How does a 2-1 buydown work, and what does it cost?

With a 2-1 buydown, your first-year payment is figured at a rate 2% below your loan's real rate. Your second-year payment is figured at 1% below. From year three on, you pay the full rate. So on a 6% loan you pay as if the rate were 4%, then 5%, then 6%. Your loan's real rate is called the note rate. It is the interest rate written on your loan papers. The seller or builder usually pays for it with a credit at closing. That money goes into an escrow account, which is a holding account your loan servicer manages. Each month, the escrow covers the gap between your lower payment and the full one.

Worked example, illustrative only

Same loan as the example above: 30-year fixed, $350,000 loan, 6% note rate. Full principal & interest payment: $2,098/month.

Year 1 at 4%: $1,671/mo (escrow pays $427/mo)

Year 2 at 5%: $1,879/mo (escrow pays $219/mo)

Total 2-1 buydown cost (escrow funded at closing): ≈ $7,764

That is about 2.2% of the loan amount, and about half the cost of the 3-2-1 buydown above. Years 3 to 30: the full $2,098 principal & interest payment. Taxes and insurance are separate. This is an example to show the math. It is not a rate quote, an offer, or a commitment to lend.

Three things to know before you ask a seller for a 2-1 buydown:

  • You still have to qualify at the full payment. In this example the lender approves you on the $2,098 payment, not the $1,671 one.
  • The cost is the size of that payment gap. Add up what the escrow pays over the two years and you have the price of the buydown.
  • The seller credit has a limit. Each loan type caps how much a seller can contribute. Check that a credit this size fits your loan before you write the offer.

Who pays for a buydown?

Usually the seller or builder, through a credit at closing. The credit funds the buydown escrow account, and the escrow pays part of your payment each month during the buydown period. Lender-funded buydowns exist too. Two rules of thumb:

  • The cost of the buydown equals the total payment difference over the buydown period — nothing more, nothing less.
  • Seller credits are capped by loan program (interested-party contribution limits), so your loan officer will confirm the credit fits your loan type before you negotiate it.

Buydown vs. price cut vs. permanent points: which wins?

It depends on how long you'll keep the loan. The same seller dollars can go three ways, and each has a different shape:

Three ways to use the same seller credit — structural comparison. Actual numbers depend on your loan; run them with a loan officer.
Temporary buydownPrice reductionPermanent points
Payment reliefLarge, but only years 1–3Small, foreverModerate, forever
Best if you…Expect to refinance or income to riseWant lower loan balance and taxesWill hold the loan long-term
If you refinance earlyUnused escrow credited backBenefit already bankedPoints money is spent

This is a ten-minute side-by-side we run constantly: same credit, three scenarios, real payments. As an independent mortgage lender we price it across our full program range — see today's rates, and if you're weighing FHA, read how FHA mortgage insurance changes the total payment.

See your buydown numbers in writing.

Get the three-scenario comparison — buydown, price cut, permanent points — on your actual loan from Valley West Mortgage (NMLS #65506; verify state licenses in NMLS Consumer Access). No obligation.

Get your fast quote

Buydown FAQ

What is a temporary mortgage buydown?

An arrangement that lowers your effective interest rate for the first one to three years of the loan. The payment difference is covered by an escrow account funded at closing, usually by a seller or builder credit. After the buydown period, payments return to the full note rate.

Do I qualify at the lower buydown rate?

No. You generally must qualify at the full note rate. A buydown eases your early payments; it does not increase your buying power.

What happens to the buydown money if I refinance or sell?

Remaining funds in the buydown escrow are typically credited toward your loan payoff, so the unused portion generally comes back to you rather than being lost.

Can I get a buydown on an FHA or VA loan?

Temporary buydowns are available on conventional, FHA, and VA loans, subject to each program's rules on seller contributions and qualification. Your loan officer confirms fit for your specific loan.

Is a 2-1 buydown cheaper than a 3-2-1?

Yes — roughly half the cost, because the escrow only needs to cover two years of smaller payment differences instead of three years of larger ones. That's why 2-1 is the most commonly negotiated structure.

Does the buydown change my actual interest rate?

No. The note rate stays the same for the life of the loan. The buydown escrow simply pays part of your payment during the buydown years — which is also why unused funds can be returned.

The bottom line

A mortgage rate buydown is negotiating leverage turned into payment relief: the seller funds your first years at a lower effective rate, you qualify at the real rate, and the unused money comes back if you exit early. It beats a price cut when payment is the problem, and it loses to permanent points when you're holding for the long haul. Get all three scenarios priced before you sign anything — that's the whole decision.

Three scenarios. Real numbers. Ten minutes.

Talk to a local Las Vegas loan officer and see the buydown, price-cut, and permanent-points math side by side for your deal.

Start your fast quote
Reviewed by
Vatche Saatdjian
President, Valley West Mortgage · NMLS #65506

Las Vegas mortgage expert since 2004 · Equal Housing Opportunity. Valley West Mortgage is an independent mortgage lender with current state authorization listed in NMLS Consumer Access, with offices at 8010 W Sahara Ave Ste 140, Las Vegas, NV. Find a loan officer →

Sources

  1. CFPB — What is a temporary buydown: consumerfinance.gov
  2. Fannie Mae Selling Guide — Temporary Interest Rate Buydowns (B2-1.4-04): selling-guide.fanniemae.com
  3. CFPB — What are discount points and lender credits: consumerfinance.gov

Last updated: July 17, 2026 — fully rewritten; example math corrected and verified ($350,000 at 6%: $2,098/mo P&I).

Talk to a Valley West specialist

Valley West Mortgage, NMLS #65506. Equal Housing Opportunity. Submitting this form is not an application and is not a commitment to lend.

Mortgage Rates April 27, 2020

Mortgage Headliners: 

Getting Answers...Should I delay my mortgage payment...
Homeowners with federal loans won’t have to pay lump sum after pausing payments
Coronavirus related forbearance requests still on the rise…
The housing industries response to the corona virus…
Nearly 10% of FHA and VA borrowers are in forbearance. Total forbearance nearing 7%...

We’re watching the market closely…

If you’re in the market to purchase or refinance give us a call today (888) 931-9444 or (702) 696-9900



Coronavirus-FHA 680 FICO

Things are moving so quickly in the market with the coronavirus being at the forefront, everyone is feeling hardship across the board.

FHA Loans provides mortgage insurance on loans made by FHA-approved lenders throughout the United States and its territories.  It is one of the largest insurers of mortgages in the world, insuring more than 46 million mortgages since its inception in 1934 and it's the only government agency that operates from its self-generated income.

Self-generated income which means the Mortgage insurance premiums that is collected from borrowers via lenders are used to operate the program.

FICO scores tells the lender what type of credit risk you are and what your interest rate should be to reflect that risk by utilizing a FICO formula.

The most commonalty used :

Equifax Beacon 5.0

Experian/Fair Isaac Risk Model v2

TransUnion FICO Risk Score 04

We’re seeing what’s “good” for rates can be bad for lenders, and what’s “good” for the market can be bad for home buyers. This tug of war has caused servicers to implement drastic measures to keep up; includes raising the minimum FICO.  If you have questions or concerns please contact your lender right away.